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Spi Won't Start, Just Cranks


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#1 meetthespeakers

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 02:02 PM

So I just finished the mammoth task of replacing the forward clutch plates on a 92 Japanese SPI with Air Con. Car previously started right up, and drove in reverse fantastic. Now that I have gotten everything back together it will not run, it cranks it's heart out, but I am not getting spark at the plugs. The coil is getting power. Could it simply be that the coil took a crap, or is it tied in somewhere else? I pushed the inertia button in for ******* and giggles and nothing. Flywheel pickup is connected. Only thing I did was replace forward clutch and seals, new radiator, full exhaust replacement, and hi-los with shocks. Engine wish just put a fresh coat of paint on it, replaced the map sensor tube. I am not a SPI guy, just helping out a buddy in need. I have a old blue coil off a 61 Mini that was in good condition, not sure if they are different ohm? I did notice someone wrote that the coolant temp sensor could make it not start, not sure how that makes sense, but on this radiator it did not have provisions for a temp switch, so I put in a probe switch on the fins of the radiator, should work just the same as factor... Any suggestions where to look?

 

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#2 meetthespeakers

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 02:55 PM

Just to add, the fuel pump primes as it should. The coolant temp sensor I was referring to is the one for the electric fan, not the one on the manifold. I have 3 wires on the coil, 2 black/white on one side, and a single wire on the other side. Test bulb shows hot on ignition, does not pulse when cranking. 



#3 minisilverbullet

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:08 PM

Are those HT leads in the right order? It is a little hard to tell by the picture 



#4 meetthespeakers

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:14 PM

I will double check, but took them off same way they were on, replaced one at a time. Regardless I should be seeing spark out of the plugs, or coming out of the coil.



#5 xrocketengineer

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:24 PM

The coils are probably different, the SPI being a GCL143, DLB198 or GCL211.  The coil for a Land Rover should be equivalent. Do you have any fuel at the injector when cranking?  If not, the crank sensor signal is not being picked up. The coil wires are white/black on the negative terminal and brown/pink on the positive.

More coil info:

 

SPI Coil GCL 143

New replacement specification 12-volt Ignition Coil, suitable only for vehicles with electronic ignition:

·  Range-Rover V8 from VIN BA147005 onwards. 

·  90/110 Defender V8.

·  Discovery V8, Carburettor and Efi models.

Should be suitable for other Rover V8 with transistorised electronic ignition users, eg. TVR, Morgan, MG, TR8 etc. TVR reference is believed to be E0057.

May fit many other vehicles, equivalent to:

  • Bosch 0 221 122 317
  • Bosch 0 221 122 360
  • Intermotor 11370
  • Intermotor 11410
  • Lucas DLB 193
  • Lucas DLB 198
  • Lucas DLB 199
  • Motaquip VCL 209
  • Quinton Hazel C.I. 8048
  • Unipart GCL 138
  • Unipart GCL 139
  • Unipart GCL 141
  • Unipart GCL 143

Part number reference is RTC 5628 REP.


Edited by xrocketengineer, 07 July 2014 - 03:36 PM.


#6 RedRuby

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:27 PM

Check the crank sensor as if the fly wheel was not in the right position then that will stop the car starting.

#7 meetthespeakers

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:31 PM

I did not touch the crank sensor. I simply removed the governor housing to replace forward clutch packs. This is a Automatic, Jap Spec 92 SPI with air conditioning. So it does not have an immobilizer. I will pull the filter cover and crank tonight when I get home to make sure fuel is coming out. Again, I can hear it prime when keyed. Is is worth pulling crank sensor and cleaning it? Looks a bit of a ballache to get to now. Not sure how it would have gotten disturbed. 



#8 meetthespeakers

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 01:17 PM

Just wanted to follow up. When I came home from work I walked out there before I got changed to dive into it. Keyed the ignition and the car fired right up, idles smooth. Have tried it 6 times since then and it starts first thing. So I quickly finished little odds and ends and dropped it off the lift, tried going through the gears and they all work! Thank freaking god. So I am happy, but at the same time am curious why it did not start the first day? I did nothing to it. I will test drive car on Thursday to work to give it a good shakedown, but hopefully that is it, job done.



#9 xrocketengineer

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 01:47 PM

Awesome! However, if the only thing you changed was the coil, that or its connections should be the prime suspects.



#10 meetthespeakers

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 01:53 PM

I did not change anything. I left it that night with the intention of checking the connections at the coil and testing the crank/flywheel sensor the next day. So I did nothing. If I wanted to change out the coil or sensor I would have had to order it and wait minimum of 3-4 days. So like I said, while I am happy that the car just started up multiple times not sure if something reset, or the car is for some reason happy now. I just don't want to give the car back and then it pop up later.



#11 xrocketengineer

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:07 PM

I misunderstood. I thought you had already used the "61 blue coil".



#12 meetthespeakers

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 01:52 PM

Well, now that it's been 2 days the car is now in LIMP mode. Exhaust is fairly black. Idle is low and a bit lumpy. Sometimes it starts and idles fine, but now it seems most time I have to give it a little throttle to start. Under normal cruising it runs great, give it some gas and it hesitates, almost sounds like it is missing. I don't know if this is a new problem, or was a existing problem prior to gearbox rebuild due to the new owner only driving the car for a few miles before the forward clutch plates went out. Other problem is I can only shift it manually 1,2,3. It will drive in D, but will not shift on it's own in D. I am having a buddy mail me his scanner so I can see what codes it may be throwing. Hopefully the "D" issue will be down to adjusting the kickdown. 



#13 xrocketengineer

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 03:13 PM

First make sure that the vacuum lines are in good condition per Sprocket's thread:

http://www.theminifo...oint-injection/

I have found suitable vacuum fittings, like elbows at Advanced Auto Parts.

The next thing to check would be the flange joint between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. Any leaks will increase the Oxygen to the sensor resulting in a rich mixture. I used a new gasket and Permatex 80335 since it does not contain silicone.






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