14 replies to this topic

[adammini]

Hi all,


I read in an old article written by keith calver in mini mag that it is possible to remove the pinion from the gearbox through the area where the speedo drive gears sit once they are removed.

I was just wondering if anyone here had done this and has any tips?

Im about to change my diff to a X-pin one and change the ratio to a 3.1, hopefully next week!



Thanks Ad

[Sprocket]

I have done it. My tip would be, take the engine out and buy one of those flywheel locking tools as you wont be able to lock the gears in the conventional way as you would with the box off the engine.

[adammini]

I have done it. My tip would be, take the engine out and buy one of those flywheel locking tools as you wont be able to lock the gears in the conventional way as you would with the box off the engine.

Thanks mini sprocket, that sounds good.

Do you know where I can get one of these magic tools, and does it fit the verto clutch?

Ta Adam

[Guess-Works.com]

You have to remove the clutch and transfercase as the tool replaces the idler gear ( or is actually an idler with a bar welded to it which locks against the crank ) but once your to that stage it's only 11 bolts and the gearbox is off...

the only way round that is to make a device which can lock the diff output shafts, could be done using two old pot joints, with bars welded to them, so when the diff turns the wedge against the case and then allow you to undo the pinion nut

[adammini]

You have to remove the clutch and transfercase as the tool replaces the idler gear ( or is actually an idler with a bar welded to it which locks against the crank ) but once your to that stage it's only 11 bolts and the gearbox is off...

the only way round that is to make a device which can lock the diff output shafts, could be done using two old pot joints, with bars welded to them, so when the diff turns the wedge against the case and then allow you to undo the pinion nut

Oh I see, thanks guessworks. If I have to take the transfer case off anyway, as you say I might as well split the engine and box.

I hope I can still get the same unipart gasket to get the right tolerance for the idler gear. I really dont want to but some more shims as last time I bought some, they were very expensive!


Thanks Ad

[Sprocket]

Eh not quite GW as there is one that replaces the starter and locks the fly wheel, doubt that the 150lb ft required to loosen or torque up the nut would cause the clutch to slip if the gearbox was in first gear or reverse for that matter (where it normaly is when removing the roll pin). Its been done.

[chrisjohnminis]

Eh not quite GW as there is one that replaces the starter and locks the fly wheel, doubt that the 150lb ft required to loosen or torque up the nut would cause the clutch to slip if the gearbox was in first gear or reverse for that matter (where it normaly is when removing the roll pin). Its been done.

Gotta have eng/trans out of car and on bench - obviously!
With diff casings and diff removed ensure that selecter and detent are disengaged from rails and forks - exactly as one would do with open g'box on bench. Then use large plain screwdriver or similar lever to engage first and fourth gears. Transmission is now locked.

Remove n/s end casing (the one with the speedo drive) and lift the lockwasher with a long chisel and a wee hammer. Then fit your 1.5 inch AF deep socket (like you'd use for front susp balljoints) onto the pinion retaining nut. If you got air, whack it off with your impact wrench. Don't worry, trans is tough enough.
If no air, jump on 24" power bar with a mate grasping top of engine...until it gets loose...

This may involve some effort, so make sure you had porridge for breakfast!

No need to fart about with flywheel locking or other weird schemes, this method is tried and trusted. I've done it a thousand times.


OK, easy for me. I'm 62yrs old. Been working on minis since 1960. Air is good! Get some if you can.

CJ

[Guess-Works.com]

How to get access to engage 1st and 4th with the engine on the box ?

I use that method when the box is off the block..

[Sprocket]

How to get access to engage 1st and 4th with the engine on the box ?

Exactly what i was getting at

Chris, not saying it cant be done, but it must be a secret as to how you select 1st and fourth witha screw driver with the box still on the engine. Could you enlighten us??

[adammini]

Thanks or all the replies, all very uselfull.

It seems that it is possible to lock the box using the gears. The mini magazine the article was in is march 1998 page 75.
Ive scanned in the section which it talks about how to do it. I dont understand all of it yet, I need to sit down with an exploded view of a gearbox and work out what it what!




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[chrisjohnminis]

Hey!
Latest reply spot on. Just like I told you. Understand your difficulty in visualising the scenario, especially if you've never stripped a box before. But think laterally; keep a cool head; don't use a a Big Hammer; be gentle and it will all come apart and go back together properly.

Agree that written instructions are often confusing. Getting hold of an exploded diagram is an ace idea because all the parts are numbered and identified by their proper names. Perhaps the likes of Mini Spares Centre could provide a copy?

But you need a copy of the pages from the parts catalogue - not the BMC workshop manual which is only a glorified version of the publications currently available from Haynes.

My Gaffer gave me some great advice back in the 1960s: "If you want to know how to put it back together, screw the manual, open up the parts book." He didn't actually use the verb "screw"...

Final drive changes were regular when me and my mates were racing minis in the 60s and 70s, and later when I was running Ministox. Taller diffs were required for longer tracks. A few hours work with a one-piece removable front.

As for engaging the the two gears necessary to lock the trans, I can only put this down to experience and the mysteries which qualify as "Trade Secrets". I now do it instinctively, and if I analyised the process, I'd probably confuse you even more. Not to mention revealing the arcane rituals involved...

It's like trying to teach a new mini driver how to heel-and-toe (essential for the preservation of the notoriously weak synchromesh). Best plot is take them as a passenger and say: "Just watch my feet!"

CJ

[Guess-Works.com]

I had a feeling it was going to be pushing the selector quads...

Good article...

[adammini]

Thanks Chris, I will defenately try and get hold of a parts catalogue.
I think minispares do have an exploded view somewhere, I will ask next time im there, which im sure wont be long!

I think I will read up as much as I can on the theory and workings of a gearbox before I start with mine.

Im glad I have kept most of my old mini mags, they do come in handy sometimes! I do like the Keith Calver tech articles.

Do metro haynes manuals go into more detail than mini ones? Its very irritating how the latest haynes gives next to no information on the gearbox.

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[miniboo]

the older metro manuals do go into more detail and they have an exploded view

[adammini]

Ah, thanks miniboo. I will have to see if I can get hold of one.
they sometimes crop up in charity shops, so I better get hunting!

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