
Mini Spares Gear Selector Oil Leak Fix Questions.
#1
Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:04 PM
Bought the kit from mini spares which includes alloy sleeve, with "O" ring to go around it.
1 gaitor, and 1 oil seal. Some people have said oil seal first, then alloy sleeve. Some say the opposite.
The instructions aren't any help.
Can anybody clarify this? And tips would be appreciated, I know oil must be drained, and that the old seal can be tricky to remove, but I must know which order these parts are fitted!!
One more thing, I don't have the punch for the pin, is it essential to have the right tool? Or will I be able to find something close enough?
Thanks a lot
#2
Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:34 PM
Edited by RedRuby, 10 July 2014 - 11:36 PM.
#3
Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:45 PM
#4
Posted 11 July 2014 - 01:38 AM
Make sure to put gearbox in reverse in order to remove the pin. Use (wedge) a wood block between the rod and the differential case so the rod will spring back less when hitting the punch with a (large) hammer. The oil seal comes out also with the self tapping screw.
I used a very narrow center punch to mark the drill point on the alloy sleeve, so when drilling I would not damage either the casing nor the rod. A Dremel tool with a 90 degree adapter made the drilling a lot easier. A shallow hole is all that is needed, enough for the screw to to engage. The sleeve's o-ring will clean out all the drilling shavings as it comes out.
Tip: pre-drill the shallow hole on the new alloy sleeve before installation. In the future, when replacing it, no drilling on the car needed.
#5
Posted 11 July 2014 - 08:05 AM
but is there a chance that I could effect the efficiency of the seal? My engineering knowledge
Is fairly limited. Cheers
#6
Posted 11 July 2014 - 08:09 AM
I did this job last year and for the life of me could not see how to replace the alloy with O ring, so I ended up just replacing the oil seal and gaitor. Some time after I was talking to DSN classics and apparently on later cars like my SPi the design is changed and the alloy and O ring are not needed.
Edit: Can somebody clarify this point.
Edited by firstforward, 11 July 2014 - 08:14 AM.
#7
Posted 11 July 2014 - 01:12 PM
#8
Posted 11 July 2014 - 01:32 PM
Hey thanks for that, drilling the sleeve before it goes in sounds like good advice,
but is there a chance that I could effect the efficiency of the seal? My engineering knowledge
Is fairly limited. Cheers
All you need is a shallow hole, just deep enough for the screw to grip with its tip. That would not affect the function of the sleeve. However, if you drill all the way through, that is a whole different story. The sleeve would be ruined by not being able to hold any oil back.
#9
Posted 12 July 2014 - 12:07 AM
#10
Posted 22 July 2014 - 03:21 PM
We understand that 'at some point' in the '90's, the factory changed the depth of the counterbore for the seals, so the upgrade was no longer necessary. That said, I can't for the life of me remember where that info came from!!
#11
Posted 22 July 2014 - 04:13 PM
Or in fact...
The support and O ring became standard fit in the 80's ( approx 1985 )
First as a plastic unit p/n DAM7764 and then shortly after replaced as a Aluminium unit p/n DAM8706
The 'leak fix' kit is only a making available of this standard part to older rod change gearboxes...
IMO the bellows type addition is a waste of time and rubber, as all they do is get hard and help to give gear selection issues in 2nd, 4th and reverse.
#12
Posted 21 August 2016 - 01:40 PM
#13
Posted 21 August 2016 - 03:43 PM
Will I lose my oil when I remove the old one?
#14
Posted 21 August 2016 - 04:11 PM
#15
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:21 PM
I take it theres no room for two seals!?
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