8 replies to this topic

[mini-little-monster]

Hi guys. I'm currently looking to buy an old Mini as I have always wanted one! Prices however, have recently sky rocketed.. Even though I've owned a number of different cars over the years as well as servicing and maintaining them as much as my skillets would allow me, I have no idea what the main things I should be looking for with regards to a mini. Theres one for restoration I have been looking at with 70,000miles on the clock, 1.3 mayfair, no tax and mot, serious welding job needed on both front and passenger floor panels (complete replacement), no battery and some rust (which is to be expected) that need to be sorted. I have started the car and the engine seems fine. Could any of you please tell me what other serious/ main issues or problems I should be looking for before making the purchase? 

 

Thanks mini lovers

Attached Files

•  floor panel.JPG   49.27K   16 downloads

[Badboytunes]

Outside Bodywork

Firstly look at the scuttle, this is the area under the windscreen where the wipers reside, if this area is rusty it can be replaced, the panel alone is around £70.00, but remember to replace this panel the wings need to be cut off, so that starts getting expensive. Next the front panel, this is below the headlights and often corrodes excessively, again welded on as are all Mini panels so again not cheap to replace. The bonnet is a bolt on panel so nothing too difficult to replace.

What it should look like

Here is an image of the front scuttle where it meets the front wing, this image is taken on a car that is totally original, note the lack of corrosion and how the wing meets the scuttle.

What it shouldn't look like

Note in this image, the panel joint between the wing and scuttle is totally smoothed over. This is a sure fire guarantee that filler has been used, also note the over spray on the side strips. This is the sort of car to be avoided unless it is very cheap

 

Next the A panels, these A shaped little panels reside between the wings and doors again a favourite rust spot. So if the Mini you are looking at needs all these panels replaced this we would class as a restoration project depending on the severity of the corrosion. Remember paint bubbling means rust underneath. If is for you to decide how bad the rust has advanced and can you live with it. Many people want there Mini as near pristine as possible. But if you have access to a mig welder or a friend that can weld this can de a distinct advantage!

Note the rust on these A panels above

Doors - do they fit correctly?, are the hinges worn?, if the door skin is rusty that can be replaced, but if the frame is rusted you need to consider new doors. Again not cheap.

Rear wings - again not a expensive panel to buy but a major job to replace, in our experience these are normally not too bad.

Boot - a bolt on panel, so no issues there, but look under the rear bumper at the valance to check for rust.

Most of above is cosmetic and will not effect you during an MOT test unless its really excessive. Cheaper cars i.e. under £1,000 will invariably have rust in some or all of these areas

Inside the car

Lift all carpets up to see if the front and rear floors are rusted, check the inner sills, either pull away the carpet or tap with a light metallic object. Be careful here, any rust inside is usually an MOT failure issue. Rear compartments next to the rear seats, lift up the cardboard liners, that must be rust free in side as it is part of the inner sill section.

Inside the Boot

The subframe mounts are in here, so be vigilant, check the boot floor in total, paying attention to the top shock absorber mounts, any corrosion here is expensive to repair and dangerous. Check the boot floor at the rear near the boot lip, also where the subframe bolts to the boot floor. Lastly remove the battery to check the battery box.

This is the area exposed of the boot floor once the petrol tank is removed. Note how close the corrosion is to the two silver bolts that connect the subframe to the boot floor. This will most certainly fail any MOT. This was not an old Mini either - this image was from a 1996 P registered Mini Cooper 1.3i that had covered just 27,000 miles! This to repair properly and neatly is not a cheap exercise!

Underside Front Section

Jack up the front of the car and remove both road wheels, check for corrosion near the front shockers, again an MOT failure, prod around the top of the inner wing where the fresh air vent pipe enters the car, both sides, excessive rust here will guarantee water leaks. Now check where the front subframe mounts to the floor, rust here again is very dangerous. Also check the front subframe, but usually these are OK as most Minis leak oil as standard.

Underside - Sides

Yes its time to check the sills, not dear to buy but still expensive to get fitted correctly and neatly, also check the floor pans for rust.

Underside - Rear

Have a prod in the inner wheel arch, at the top where the shocker mounts and the areas in front and behind the road wheel. Next the rear subframe, if that is corroded that can be a fairly horrendous task to replace and expensive.

Paintwork

Check for colour match and overspray inside door shuts and under wheel arches. If the car you are looking at shows the paint is bubbling the panel is starting to rust, whatever the seller says!

[alicetheauto]

This bit rusts badly too. Lower part of rear quarter panels. Can be a nightmare to replace as well, it's either a lower repair panel grafted in, or an entire huge panel!

Attached Files

•  DSC_0766.jpg   68.08K   7 downloads

[AVV IT]

With regard to prices sky rocketing, whilst prices do seem to be gradually starting to rise, the market is still at a relative low at the moment and has been that way for a few years now. Five years ago, prices were actually higher than they are now. It's easy to get a different impression than that though, mainly due to all the unrealistic asking prices you'll see, and that buyers are very unlikely to get. The problem is that people pour money into their classic mini, and then expect to recoup most of it when they come to sell, but it rarely works that way. The reality is that actual selling prices are generally much lower, with few tidy 80's-90's models with a full MOT making much over the £2.5k mark.

So don't be tempted to pay out a small fortune, just because you see a lot of high asking prices. There are reasonably priced minis out there, just take a look through the completed listings on eBay to see how much they're actually selling for.

[mini-little-monster]

Thank you all for you genuine and helpful advice! Haven't purchased the car yet but will be going to have a look soon. Is ebay the best place to look for a decent mini or a potential for a small restoration project?

[surfblue]

Your sanity? 

[Cooperman]

 

Outside Bodywork

Firstly look at the scuttle, this is the area under the windscreen where the wipers reside, if this area is rusty it can be replaced, the panel alone is around £70.00, but remember to replace this panel the wings need to be cut off, so that starts getting expensive. Next the front panel, this is below the headlights and often corrodes excessively, again welded on as are all Mini panels so again not cheap to replace. The bonnet is a bolt on panel so nothing too difficult to replace.

What it should look like

 

Here is an image of the front scuttle where it meets the front wing, this image is taken on a car that is totally original, note the lack of corrosion and how the wing meets the scuttle.

What it shouldn't look like

 

Note in this image, the panel joint between the wing and scuttle is totally smoothed over. This is a sure fire guarantee that filler has been used, also note the over spray on the side strips. This is the sort of car to be avoided unless it is very cheap

 

Next the A panels, these A shaped little panels reside between the wings and doors again a favourite rust spot. So if the Mini you are looking at needs all these panels replaced this we would class as a restoration project depending on the severity of the corrosion. Remember paint bubbling means rust underneath. If is for you to decide how bad the rust has advanced and can you live with it. Many people want there Mini as near pristine as possible. But if you have access to a mig welder or a friend that can weld this can de a distinct advantage!

Note the rust on these A panels above

Doors - do they fit correctly?, are the hinges worn?, if the door skin is rusty that can be replaced, but if the frame is rusted you need to consider new doors. Again not cheap.

Rear wings - again not a expensive panel to buy but a major job to replace, in our experience these are normally not too bad.

Boot - a bolt on panel, so no issues there, but look under the rear bumper at the valance to check for rust.

Most of above is cosmetic and will not effect you during an MOT test unless its really excessive. Cheaper cars i.e. under £1,000 will invariably have rust in some or all of these areas

Inside the car

Lift all carpets up to see if the front and rear floors are rusted, check the inner sills, either pull away the carpet or tap with a light metallic object. Be careful here, any rust inside is usually an MOT failure issue. Rear compartments next to the rear seats, lift up the cardboard liners, that must be rust free in side as it is part of the inner sill section.

Inside the Boot

The subframe mounts are in here, so be vigilant, check the boot floor in total, paying attention to the top shock absorber mounts, any corrosion here is expensive to repair and dangerous. Check the boot floor at the rear near the boot lip, also where the subframe bolts to the boot floor. Lastly remove the battery to check the battery box.

This is the area exposed of the boot floor once the petrol tank is removed. Note how close the corrosion is to the two silver bolts that connect the subframe to the boot floor. This will most certainly fail any MOT. This was not an old Mini either - this image was from a 1996 P registered Mini Cooper 1.3i that had covered just 27,000 miles! This to repair properly and neatly is not a cheap exercise!

Underside Front Section

Jack up the front of the car and remove both road wheels, check for corrosion near the front shockers, again an MOT failure, prod around the top of the inner wing where the fresh air vent pipe enters the car, both sides, excessive rust here will guarantee water leaks. Now check where the front subframe mounts to the floor, rust here again is very dangerous. Also check the front subframe, but usually these are OK as most Minis leak oil as standard.

Underside - Sides

Yes its time to check the sills, not dear to buy but still expensive to get fitted correctly and neatly, also check the floor pans for rust.

Underside - Rear

Have a prod in the inner wheel arch, at the top where the shocker mounts and the areas in front and behind the road wheel. Next the rear subframe, if that is corroded that can be a fairly horrendous task to replace and expensive.

Paintwork

Check for colour match and overspray inside door shuts and under wheel arches. If the car you are looking at shows the paint is bubbling the panel is starting to rust, whatever the seller says!

 

That is really excellent information. Well done. It will help not only the OP but anyone else who wants a Mini and lacks experience.

This should be a 'sticky'.

[JayBox]

Spot on guide. Asked the same question tonight. Somehow missed this thread! Made sure to make a 'reminders' list in my iPhone to be full of these points. Cheers, mate!

[richw911]

Link is here

 

http://www.itsamini.co.uk/check.htm