12 replies to this topic

[ToM 2012]

hi at the end of this week i want to make a start on painting the underside of the body i was going to do the same method as my old one but i want a high finish and more protection. my plan is to flip it over onto its side on a bed mattress finishing welding the seams and etc seam seal all the joins red oxide zinc onto the bare metal all over underneath the a coating of primer to stop the reaction from a stone chip coating over the top then paint color 2 pack and then i was thinking lacquer and then wax oil the underneath last once all the rest of the body has been painted... anything else i can do or i shouldnt do?? i do want the underneath to be the same smooth shiny finish as the outer body finish. thanks tom  

[cal844]

That wuld be top notch! As long as you keep the car dry before you waxoil it


Hope this helps

[ToM 2012]

thanks cal so what i have already done is good enough? 

[Daz1968]

I would use epoxy on bare metal, then seam seal then put a coat of epoxy over the sealant. This will seal everything and help prevent the stonechip reacting with the sealant. Then apply a nice coat of upol gravitex, if you want it smoother add some thinner to it, then once that all dry you can apply another coat of epoxy if you want then a couple of coats of 2k gloss.
It's not what I did but having learnt while doing my project it's what I would do next time, I had issues with stonechip reacting with cellulose based primers David's zinc 182 being main culprit so wouldn't use it again.

[JonnyAlpha]

I would use epoxy on bare metal, then seam seal then put a coat of epoxy over the sealant. This will seal everything and help prevent the stonechip reacting with the sealant. Then apply a nice coat of upol gravitex, if you want it smoother add some thinner to it, then once that all dry you can apply another coat of epoxy if you want then a couple of coats of 2k gloss.
It's not what I did but having learnt while doing my project it's what I would do next time, I had issues with stonechip reacting with cellulose based primers David's zinc 182 being main culprit so wouldn't use it again.

Daz;

 

I was planning on Epoxy Pimer, Seam Selaer, Epoxy Primer, Gravitex Stonechip, Cellulose Top Coat.

In your reply above you mention applying a coat of Epoxy over the Stone Chip before the Top Coat?

 

Also I read in a post elsewhere of someone using Gravitex applied with a Shutz Gun over Epoxy and it reacted, the way the combatted it was to apply a coat or two of smooth thinned down sprayed on using a normal spray gun and then a coat with a Shutz Gun.

 

It seemed that when it was applied with the Shutz it went on to thick and reacted with the Epoxy?

[sonikk4]

The biggest thing you need to remember is any new paint whether its primer or paint needs to be cured first. If the thinners in it have not flashed off then its likely it will react.

[Daz1968]

I have used epoxy primer and 2k primer and once they are cured I haven't found anything reacts with them when overcoating, maybe if you apply gravitex to thick it will skin dry then when the trapped solvent escapes causes it to split or react, but I doubt the epoxy would cause it. Cellulose is a different matter and any high thinners top coat applied over it can cause it to soften, seam sealer is the same which is why in future I would put a sealer coat of epoxy over it, aerosols are the same as they have that much solvent in them so they spray that they will react if applied to thick.

[ToM 2012]

The biggest thing you need to remember is any new paint whether its primer or paint needs to be cured first. If the thinners in it have not flashed off then its likely it will react.

hi sonikk what do you mean not flashed of? thanks tom 

[ToM 2012]

thanks daz 

[sonikk4]

Flashed off is the term used for when the thinners within the paint has basically evaporated. The paint should be hardened by then.

[ToM 2012]

ok mate cheers now i know 

[Minidarren83]

You will know when the paint has flagged off Tom by touching some of the masking with overspray on the paint will feel tacky but won't cone off on your fingers

[ToM 2012]

cheers darren