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Couple Of Questions Regarding Headgaskets


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#1 AGRO_RB

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 09:42 AM

Think the head gasket on my 998 has finally given up, so i've ordered a kit from Minispares which includes a copper headgasket.

 

My questions are:

 

1. Does the copper side of the gasket sit face down on the block? (I assume it does?)

 

2. Is it worth using head gasket specific copper spray on the whole gasket before fitting? (The Permatex stuff)

 

3. If my head is cracked (I doubt it is, but just in case.. having it tested) what other heads work well on the 998 without costing a fortune?

 

Cheers in advance.



#2 Ethel

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 11:04 AM

It'll be marked if it matters. Never used, or needed, any sprays etc, so can't comment, other than that.

 

I'd just change the gasket, crack testing will cost more than another gasket.



#3 cal844

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 11:25 AM

to be honest getting the head crack tested and then flat checked would be worth it.. Personally i try to avoid copper gaskets where possible



#4 6joshh6

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 12:08 PM

1) The head gasket will be marked 'top' on the side which faces up so install it that way and all should be well.

 

2) You don't need to worry about sealing it, that's what the gasket is for.

 

3) I wouldn't worry too much about a standard 998 head cracking, they have quite substantial castings and small valves so they don't crack easily. Most of the problems with cracked heads come from 12g940 heads with oversized valves. Quite frankly, with the price of 998 heads you could pick up a usable one for less that the cost of a crack test. When you install the head you don't need to worry about sealing it, that's what the gasket it for, just make sure you torque down the head carefully, following the order shown in Haynes.

 

If I were you I would also check what has caused the head gasket to blow. Make sure you give the cooling system a good flush through with clean water and refill it with the correct coolant when it goes back together, as that will help prevent any overheating which could cause it to go again. I would also check your timing if possible as if the timing is over advanced, you could cause detonation which might also cause it to go again (as well as potentially damaging pistons amongst other things). It might also be worthwhile to clean and re lap the valves while the head is off: you only need a drill mounted wire brush, a valve lapping stick and paste, and a valve spring compressor. Its a pretty easy job providing you're carefull and will help ensure your engine runs as smoothly as possible (I once had a 998 exhaust valve which had a 3mm deep deposit of combustion residue on the valve face which kept it from shutting properly. Although the engine ran ok like this, it was much smoother after a nice clean out and a re lapping.)



#5 jime17

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 12:34 PM

The copper gasket I got from mini spares wasn't marked top. I was told to put it copper side up by folk on here.

Worked fine. A few bubbles during first heat cycle. Stopped after re torque.

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 02:13 PM

Yep mine from the same kit had no marking on it and it leaked oil so had another one sent but this time it was a Payen. No issues with that one.

#7 AGRO_RB

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:22 AM

1) The head gasket will be marked 'top' on the side which faces up so install it that way and all should be well.

 

2) You don't need to worry about sealing it, that's what the gasket is for.

 

3) I wouldn't worry too much about a standard 998 head cracking, they have quite substantial castings and small valves so they don't crack easily. Most of the problems with cracked heads come from 12g940 heads with oversized valves. Quite frankly, with the price of 998 heads you could pick up a usable one for less that the cost of a crack test. When you install the head you don't need to worry about sealing it, that's what the gasket it for, just make sure you torque down the head carefully, following the order shown in Haynes.

 

If I were you I would also check what has caused the head gasket to blow. Make sure you give the cooling system a good flush through with clean water and refill it with the correct coolant when it goes back together, as that will help prevent any overheating which could cause it to go again. I would also check your timing if possible as if the timing is over advanced, you could cause detonation which might also cause it to go again (as well as potentially damaging pistons amongst other things). It might also be worthwhile to clean and re lap the valves while the head is off: you only need a drill mounted wire brush, a valve lapping stick and paste, and a valve spring compressor. Its a pretty easy job providing you're carefull and will help ensure your engine runs as smoothly as possible (I once had a 998 exhaust valve which had a 3mm deep deposit of combustion residue on the valve face which kept it from shutting properly. Although the engine ran ok like this, it was much smoother after a nice clean out and a re lapping.)

 

 

 

The car had an incorrect radiator cap fitted when I bought it, 7lbs instead of 14, which caused the car to overheat constantly, resulting in it eventually seizing on us, its running fine now, but has just started forcing water out of the overflow again. Even if the gasket hasn't failed, with the amount of heat cycling it's had i'd rather just replace it and know that it's been done. Cooling system is full of crap once again (brand new radiator is full of chunks of rust), any recommendations for chemical flushing? Clearly the usual garden hose forward/reverse flush method isn't quite cutting the cake...

 

Entire cooling system was replaced in May, incase you're wondering.


Edited by AGRO_RB, 06 August 2014 - 09:25 AM.


#8 AGRO_RB

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:12 PM

??

#9 Ethel

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:24 PM

You do have antifreeze in it?



#10 AGRO_RB

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:59 PM

Yes premix, I never run anything on water, demineralised or otherwise.




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