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Drive Shaft Bearing Removal ?


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#1 big-jay

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 07:33 PM

I've stripped down my drive shafts today, and was wondering if it's possible to remove the large bearing case from the end of it, and the one in the UJ part that attaches to it.

Here's a picture so you can see what I'm talking about -

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I can't see how you would do it, and don't won't to risk damaging it.

If someone could tell me if it's possible and how to do it that would be greatly appreciated !

#2 xrocketengineer

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 07:56 PM

If the balls and races are not pitted or damaged, leave it alone. If not:

 

http://www.theminifo...stuck pot joint



#3 RedRuby

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:36 PM

As you look at the drive shaft you can see the groove just before the bearing race just where the grove ends you can see the clean metal collar this is the part you need to hit as follows. Put the drive shaft in a vice and with a cold chisel and a hammer place the chisel up against the collar and strike firmly with the hammer. You have to overcome the pressure of the circlip underneath but once that is done the whole cage will slide off. Give it a soaking in penetrating fluid first and be preparation to use a good degree of force with the hammer, try not to let the chisel damage the shaft, the bearing cage does not matter as you will probably be fitting a new unit. Most people are of the opinion that if you have separated the pot joint cover from the bearing cage, as they are mated parts unless you can place the relevant ball bearing with the relevant slot in the cover you should replace the pot joint as incorrect assembly will lead to premature wear and you will have to change the joint in the near future. Obviously the choice is yours whether you risk reassembly or you renew at this stage.

#4 big-jay

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:59 PM

Ok, cheers for the advise, I'll bear that in mind when I'm rebuilding them.

#5 Gazp

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:53 PM

I did the same job myself recently found it easier to just remove the whole end and replace with this http://www.minisport...nt-1976-01.html

As previously said after time the balls become mated to the cup they sit it and will wear much quicker if you do not mate them back up.

#6 big-jay

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:00 PM

I did the same job myself recently found it easier to just remove the whole end and replace with this http://www.minisport...nt-1976-01.html
As previously said after time the balls become mated to the cup they sit it and will wear much quicker if you do not mate them back up.


Ahh, two of those it is then, I don't have the original inner pot joints anymore anyway, so will defo replace them.

#7 Gazp

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:05 PM

And if you can push off the c clips first then it should just slide off!

#8 xrocketengineer

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:25 PM

And if you can push off the c clips first then it should just slide off!

Good luck with that.



#9 Gazp

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:29 PM

Worked for me

#10 Gremlin

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:38 PM

Worked for me

Obviously not thinking about the same thing, the circlip is inside

#11 Gazp

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 10:41 PM

Was a couple months ago so can't completely remember all I know is it came apart and new one fitted no problem!

#12 Dan

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 11:01 PM

  You can do it if you smash the end cap off the inner part of the pot joint, which is sometimes required if there is heavy corrosion.  Obviously this wrecks the joint.  As has been said though it's not ideal to reassemble joints unless you have marked the orientation before splitting them anyway.  Shame if you haven't marked these up for reassembly really as that joint looks to be in excellent condition, the balls are still all tightly fitted and in good shape.






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