14 replies to this topic

[RobbieP]

Hi folks,

 

I've been reading up on the issues with the relay box on the spi's, however I've tested the car through all the fault-checks suggested and I'm still having issues. PErhaps Sprocket or Flying Scot can see if I've missed anything.

 

Scenario:

 

After about 1.5 hours of driving, I was stopped at a light and the car bucked and stalled. I restarted it and got about 30 feet before it stalled and wouldn't start again. Towed home.

 

After reading about the Relay box issues I installed a used one. It started right up and then stalled out after 2 minutes. I checked the 10a fuse and replaced it and reset the inertia switch. No luck, starts and then stalls out after 2 minutes, sometimes longer. 

 

I then replaced the fuel pump with and extra one I had on hand, checked the fuses and reset the inertia switch and it still stalls out after a few minutes of idling. I noticed the 10a fuse start to glow red and blow out, I changed that and still same issue.

 

I checked the fuel filler cap to make sure it was sealing and it was fine.('I've had it stall before when this wasn't fitting correctly)

 

For some reason now the rev counter has stopped working too. I haven't tried driving it while it runs as I'm not up for pushing it home if it stalls on idle in the driveway...

 

What am I missing? Bad wiring? Everything looks some-what clean and after removing some tape around the loom that plugs in to the relay box they all look okay too. I tried plugging in the old relay box and it does the exact same thing, run then stall. Could both relay boxes bad?

 

Thanks! 

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

[RobbieP]

Also, I just put my ear to the tank and it primes, runs and then after a few minutes, stops making noise and the car stalls. 

[FlyingScot]

Unlikely both relay boxes bad; more likely bad connectors or loom.
Part of the clue maybe the rev counter not working (presume it was before); check the coil and it's wiring (Kernow Cooper has some great write ups on how to test). If you loose the ignition circuit the car will stop and MEMS will cut the fuel as the crank sense will indicate she isn't turning over.
I would be checking the ignition side first before moving onto the fuel pump and it's controls.
Had a failing coil on one of my SPis and it randomly cut out and wouldn't always restart as when the coil warmed it it started to fail, cooled down it was fine.

FS

[RobbieP]

Unlikely both relay boxes bad; more likely bad connectors or loom.
Part of the clue maybe the rev counter not working (presume it was before); check the coil and it's wiring (Kernow Cooper has some great write ups on how to test). If you loose the ignition circuit the car will stop and MEMS will cut the fuel as the crank sense will indicate she isn't turning over.
I would be checking the ignition side first before moving onto the fuel pump and it's controls.
Had a failing coil on one of my SPis and it randomly cut out and wouldn't always restart as when the coil warmed it it started to fail, cooled down it was fine.

FS

 

Thanks mate, I'll give it a try. 

 

I've recently replaced the plugs and wires, but the coil is factory. 

[xrocketengineer]

Tachometer  problems are probably related to coil, coil (low voltage) wiring or crank sensor. All or any of these would also cause the drivability symptoms that you are noticing. No crank sensor signal will cause the fuel pump to stop.

[Badboytunes]

With regards to the tacho, I had a smilar problem..... The needle used to jump about and the car was jerky. One of the connectors on the coil feeds the tacho and this was in poor condition. I wiggles it and the terminal on the snaooed and the car wouldnt start. Fitted a new terminal on the coil and all sorted.

 

 

Hope your issue is as simple as that

[RobbieP]

So I changed the coil and it still stalls, still no rev counter. 

 

I changed the ECU/MEMs with a used one from a running car, still no rev counter, still stalls after a few minutes at idle.

 

Will the MEMs shut the car down if there is air in the fuel system? Perhaps a clogged filter? Or maybe the distributer is screwed?

 

Help!

Edited by RobbieP, 05 September 2014 - 07:08 PM.

[xrocketengineer]

Check the continuity on the Crankshaft Angle Sensor (CAS). It should be 1100 to1700 Ohms per the Rover manual. It is the blue connector with a blue/purple and white/blue wires mounted on a bracket that attaches to the starter as shown in the picture. Obviously, the starter is removed in the picture. The CAS is the black rubber piece just below the starter hole in the picture. By the way, the picture is also from1994 Japanese SPI.

 

Edited by xrocketengineer, 05 September 2014 - 07:54 PM.

[RobbieP]

Check the continuity on the Crankshaft Angle Sensor (CAS). It should be 1100 to1700 Ohms per the Rover manual. It is the blue connector with a blue/purple and white/blue wires mounted on a bracket that attaches to the starter as shown in the picture. Obviously, the starter is removed in the picture. The CAS is the black rubber piece just below the starter hole in the picture. By the way, the picture is also from1994 Japanese SPI.

 

Would a bad crankshaft sensor shut the power to the fuel pump?

[FlyingScot]

Yes!
MEMS will shut if the pump after priming if it "senses" that the crank isn't turning. So if the sensor has a fault the fuel pump will shut off.


FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 05 September 2014 - 09:19 PM.

[RobbieP]

So I've replaced the crank sensor with a used one off a running car. The car will still stall if I leave it idling in the garage after 4-5 minutes.

 

I took it for a drive around the block and it drove okay, but still no TACHO! 

 

I'm starting to think it's a relay problem or a bad distributer? 

 

Maybe even bad petrol? I have a new Oxygen Sensor to go in but I haven't replaced it yet, any chance it's that?

 

Rob

[xrocketengineer]

Go back to the coil connections. There is a white wire(s) with a black tracer. One side goes to pin 25 of the ECU and the other to the tachometer.  Make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and not shorting to earth. If all that checks out ok, maybe there is short on the tach.

[RobbieP]

I just tested the tach and it's fine, all the wires on the coil seem fine, I replaced the spade clips and cleaned up the connections on the coil too. I noticed when it does run (before it stalls) that it's getting much warmer, much faster than usual and then stalling...

 

IAT maybe?

[Mini_tommy]

if the car is stating its getting warmer quicker, it might not be, but the engine coolant temp sensor may be faulty, giving a wrong reading, dont think this related to tach not working thogh

[RobbieP]

Turns out, after weeks of trying to diagnose the problem of the stalling that I had a faulty inertia switch! 

 

I bypassed it and ran a wire straight to the fuel pump via the fuse and it ran fine. 

 

 

rob