29 replies to this topic

[Mini_tommy]

This car has been garaged now for 6 years and was running fine before it was garaged. A lot of parts was removed, inner wings cut, and a fibre glass flip front fitted. It then stood along time.

It still starts first turn of the key, idles and revs up fine.

However it kept cutting out when pullin up to junctions, lack of power, and have to keep in low gears till get the speed up, otherwise it judders a lot. Cat was glowing so I fitted a decat pipe. The cutting out improved and now only usually cuts out once when cold then it doesn't again.

Still runnin rough when there's a load on the engine. Still fine when idling though. It is backfiring and popping in the exhaust. Smell petrol in the fumes and is strong.

I've checked the vac pipe at the ecu and isn't blocked and made sure it wasn't pushed on till it's blocked.

Sprayed stuff around the inlet and stuff and no change in engine note. I've cleaned the throttle butterfly valve but it was clean anyways. New NGK plugs, leads, coil pack, air filter. Fresh petrol been ran through several times. Must admit there had been old fuel ran through it in the past and it run horrible. If I hit a hill it struggles.

I've got a snapon ethos with a adaptor that fits into the diagnostic socket in the engine bay, but just says no power from the vehicle when I try to connect.

I also noticed that when I turn the lights on and there's a bit of load on the engine, the idle suffers slightly too.

It starts excellent. My thinking is the lambda sensor so it's not fuelling correctly. What you all reckon? The temp gauge works as it should so don't think there's a problem with the ect sensor.

Thanks

[exuptoy]

How's your timing? Timing would have an effect on the struggling on hills etc and running. Slacken off the distributor pinch bolt and move it a few mill either way and see if the revs pick up or drop off. It could just need timing correctly. 

[Mini_tommy]

I thought the distributor on the spi was only used for the spark plugs firing order but isn't part of the ignition timing? Thought that was ecu controlled? Or am I just thinking wrong? If I'm wrong then will give that a go, but haven't moved the distributor anyways since it was running good before it was garaged. Thanks for reply

[RedRuby]

You mention the vacuum pipe at the ECU, have you checked them all particularly the rubber joints/elbows ie ECU to petrol trap, petrol trap to inlet manifold and inlet manifold to air cleaner box. Link below is a good guide by sprocket.





http://www.theminifo...njection/page-1

[xrocketengineer]

Disconnect the Lambda Sensor and see if it runs better. If it does but still has the exhaust popping, there is an air leak into the exhaust manifold probably where it connects to the down pipe.

[FlyingScot]

I thought the distributor on the spi was only used for the spark plugs firing order but isn't part of the ignition timing? Thought that was ecu controlled? Or am I just thinking wrong? If I'm wrong then will give that a go, but haven't moved the distributor anyways since it was running good before it was garaged. Thanks for reply

Correct timing is adjusted by MEMS ECU

FS

[Mini_tommy]

Thanks for the replys everyone. I'll give the lambda a try and check the rest of the vacuums and check for exhaust leaks. Will keep posted. Thanks

[Gower67]

ive rencently rescued an spi which had been garaged for a number of years and had know end of trouble with the injection side of things but refused to go carb.

 

so far ive replaced all the vac pipes (elbows and connectors),

re terminated the fuel pump in line fuse,

new fuel pump (old one was shot)

replaced the fuel filter,

fuel system flushed,

new air filter,

new HT leads.

 

it can only be fuel, air or ignition 

 

it now runs great it really needed just a decent service.

 

keep things simple before getting involed with the more pricey componants.

[Mini_tommy]

I must admit fuel filter is a job that I need to do, just worries because the new filter didn't come with new union seals, and the old filter looks rusty as. I'm guessing I probs end up cutting it out and sticking a push fit filter with jubilee clips on instead if fitting the original fails. Thanks for advice, will keep posted. Cheers

[Mini_tommy]

Not had much of a chance to check the mini, but I have realised why my diagnostic would not connect!

 

With modern diagnostics, the power to the unit from the vehicle is via the obd2 cable. Being the first time using the 3 pin rover connector/adaptor with my Snap On Ethos, I did not realise that there was a power adaptor that also needed using, using crocodile clips from the battery, into the rover 3 pin adaptor, to power it up. Last time i tried connecting i was just getting the error, No Power From Vehicle error. Now i've realised my mistake, I am going to put the diagnostic back on tomorrow, and hopefully will be able to connect this time, and all being well, I will offer use of this in the Sunderland area.

[Alpenflitzer]

If a catalytic converter glows, than it is either defect oder the mixture is too fat. After stating this you can more or less throw the cat away and replace.

[Mini_tommy]

Plugged in and map sensor fault code. Checked most vac lines and they seemed fine. Going to fit new vac pipes to be on the safe side. Live data weren't working on my scanner as kept loosing connection every other second.

My lambda sensor wasn't plugged in oops lol. However didn't flag as a fault? After plugging back in it still the same. Going to take ecu off, and put it on the radiator overnight order new vac pipes, and change the fuel filter. For the split second live data worked the lambda at idle was showing as 428mv or something but then connection was lost. Cats binned and decat pipe fitted. Still popping in the exhaust but did improve things.

[Mini_tommy]

I'm guessing too that all the over fuelling is probably damaged the lambda anyways

[Mini_tommy]

Ok bit of an update, and after any advice.

I've changed the vac pipes to the Samco sport silicone vac tubes and out of the 4 hoses I replaced, 2 were split. The one going from fuel trap to map (ecu) had a split in it, and the one going from the manifold to the air temperature control valve (think that's what it's called) had perished at the elbow joint. I'm assuming this is why a map sensor fault code was stored.

Since doing this the car seems slightly better but still popping noises which I think is in the exhaust but does not cut out at all now. Still seems like the car isn't at full power and having to get the speed up in lower gears otherwise it splutters a lot.

I have noticed when turning the lights on the idle speed drops a bit, but does not cut out but seems to be shaking a bit as if the idles too slow.

I tried unplugging the lambda and running it and makes no difference at all as to when it's plugged in. Surely a working lambda sensor being unplugged would make running issues worse? Could this mean that the lambda is goosed?

So from the start the car kept cutting out constant, backfiring, glowing cat, and power output was drastic.

I've fitted a decat pipe, replaced the vac pipes, new coil pack, leads and plugs, new air filter. It now starts first time, doesn't cut out, but does make backfiring popping noises still and on the straight struggle to get above 50mph. Can't gear up normal as it splutters so keeping it in lower gears for longer.

What you guys reckon?

Cheers

[Phil-R]

Sputtering and popping when slowing down:

 

When you take you're foot off the accelerator at any point above idle speed MEMS should cut the fuel completely until you get down close to idle revs. If it pops, then it's still putting in fuel because it thinks the throttle is open.

 

Remove the TPS sensor (black plastic unit secured with 2 screw to the left hand side of the manifold (as viewed from under the bonnet) It has a metal lever that the buterfly spindle rotates against. This is what tells the ECU that you've got you're foot on the throttle. It's spring loaded, but can fail to close fully when the throttle closes. The ECU thinks you've opened the throttle more than you have, so keeps putting the fuel in and hence the un-burnt fuel popping in the exhaust.

 

Use something to clean and lube it until opens and closes smoothly. I tried a few things, but motorcycle chain cleaner followed by motorcycle chain lube got it working like new for me... but try with what ever you have to hand. When you screw it back on, make sure the butterfly spindle catches the lever on the sensor (there's a chance you can screw it on wrong so that the 2 parts don't touch)

 

EDIT: a couple more notes...

 

Change the fuel filter under the rear subframe if you don't know when it was last changed.

Get new fuel in the tank if it's been sitting there for more than a year.

Flush the cat. Hold it up to the light and get an idea of how much light passes through, then repeatedly flush it. I used GUNK (the green bio-degradable one from Halfords) and it passed an MOT emissions with ease after previously failing with a blocked up cat. It might be 2 late for you're cat, but for a fiver vs £100 for a new CAT, I'd give it a go.

Edited by chrome, 06 October 2014 - 10:58 PM.