13 replies to this topic

[skoughi]

Needing some opinions on my current settings and if I can get away with them! I've already sent a message to cooperman but will be interesting to hear what others think. I'm going to be using 13" wheels and it's going to be a daily driver on everyday road surfaces. Current settings are;
NS -0.6 camber +2.75 castor wb 2033mm
OS -0.6 camber +3.0 castor wb 2031mm
Rear toe in 2mm front toe out 1mm
Does anyone think it's worth shimming out the rear sub on the OS to get an equal wb thus then getting an equal castor or could I go with what I've got?

[nicklouse]

Anything adjustabke?

And on a FWD you really should have some toe in on the front. How much depends on what Sus you have the stiffer the pivots are the less you need.

[Cerberus]

Anything adjustabke?

And on a FWD you really should have some toe in on the front. How much depends on what Sus you have the stiffer the pivots are the less you need.

 

 

Toe out I hope you mean.  FWD has toe out on the front wheels, as when the driving force is applied to them, the wheels try to pull themeselves inwards.

[skoughi]

There are settings suggested by cooperman so will be going with them for initial set up, my concern is the 2mm difference in wheelbase and slight difference in castor. Are these enough to make a noticeable odds in everyday driving?

[skoughi]

It's fully adjustable. I'm wanting to weld up my rear trailing arm brackets at the settings for toe in and camber I have just now. If what I have is ok then I can weld them and get rebuilding .

[Guess-Works.com]

Dave, aka icklemini is the man you want to ask or at least cast an eye over suspension settings...

 

If you have a fully adjustable set up then you ideally need it all set up with you in the car + any other baggage which you normally carry..

[Carlos W]

If you have a fully adjustable set up then you ideally need it all set up with you in the car + any other baggage which you normally carry..

What a great suggestion, really obvious but I'd never thought of it

[skoughi]

This was going through my head as well, my thirteen stone frame pushing down on the drivers side will probably have an effect! But also I could have the whole family in it as well or any number of variations. Also I'll be driving on all manner of differing road surfaces, by the time I'd considered all this my head was sore!!! So I thought I would just set her as is then check again once she was fully built up. I'm aiming to weld a thick washer onto my trailing arm bracket that's had the hole opened up to aid adjustment. So before I commit to this I want to know the wheelbase measurement is acceptable .

[Guess-Works.com]

Simple things like hilo's can upset the balance of a car if not set correctly, primarily aim for a standard ride height and the same height across axles and then it should be adjusted from there to get a balance on the corner weights you want, even filling the fuel tank puts approx 20kg's over the rear wheel

[skoughi]

Understood sir, there's certainly a lot more to consider than just setting camber! I think the basics are all I can set just now then experiment later once she's on the road and I can try fine tuning things. Certainly makes you think these wee cars!

[nicklouse]

It's fully adjustable. I'm wanting to weld up my rear trailing arm brackets at the settings for toe in and camber I have just now. If what I have is ok then I can weld them and get rebuilding .

Ok so fully adjustable. Is the suspension rubber mounted or rose joints or poly bushes?

How diff the joints and stuff makes d difference as to what settings you want at the front.

2mm ain't much but I would be looking at why you have different measurements before sparking up the welder.

[skoughi]

All the bushes are poly, both front and rear and the front sub is solid mounted. The difference is probably there from the heelboard repairs. To rectify should be to simply shim out the heelboard mount on the short side then check and adjust toe settings front and rear. However this is more work which wont be the end of the world to do but if 2mm is ok then I'll leave as is. The different castor settings is also something I'm wondering about and if it'll have any effect on normal everyday driving on on/off camber roads. I've already welded up one of the brackets and made a slight arse of it in regards that I've lost neg camber but I can either remove shims I've placed between the bracket and sub or simply cut off the washer and reweld, which is what will probably happen!

[icklemini]

got your PM...

 

2mm difference in wheel base is actually very good.... not many (any) cars have a spot-on wheel base eachside.,,,,

 

with 13" rims I would try and get a little more castor, and get it matched side to side to help stop any tramlining.

 

Camber wise I would run between -0.5 max at the front... 0 to -0.25degs rear

 

Toe, at the back I wouldnt want to run it 1 to 2 mm toe in on each wheel (2 - 4mm total toe) max - this will help with stability..

at the front, if you are polybushed and the car is pretty stiff: try 0.5/1mm toe out... might be worth giving 0mm a try too... 

Edited by icklemini, 04 October 2014 - 07:45 AM.

[skoughi]

Thanks for getting back to me! Yeah I'm not to worried about the wb measurement but more wanting to get the castor equal. I can always shim the rear sub to get an equal wb once the castor is sorted. Your measurements are more or less the same I got from cooperman so I'll go for what you guys are suggesting . I was thinking to go for a little more castor and to overcome heavy slow speed steering I'm simply thinking to use a larger diameter steering wheel! I bought the back issue of mini magazine that has the suspension set up feature and that's given me some pointers with regards the order for setting up . Thanks again for the input!

Edited by skoughi, 04 October 2014 - 12:09 PM.