12 replies to this topic

[mm man]

I am running a 1987 A+ 1275 out of a mg metro as a daily drive with a front mounted metro rad and after around 15 miles it starts to run hot and the electric fan cut in just as its hitting the red line (hot)
If I fit a 74* thermostat (engine ) will this help ? or do I need to change the rad switch ? And if so do they do lower degree cut ins

[cal844]

Test the thermostat, look for a temperature marking on the 'stat

[mm man]

I am sure I am running a 88* now
If I change to a 74* one will the water leave the engine cooler but then sit in the rad untill it gets to the rad sensor temp ? Wich will be at the red line again ?

Test the thermostat, look for a temperature marking on the 'stat

[S2000Steve]

Either adjust the switch at which the fan switches on. It should switch on as the temp gauge approaches the middle of the temp gauge.

Or if the fan does not have an adjustment switch for when it kicks in you should fit one.

 

The 74 degree thermostat will work, but in my experience the engine will not get up to the optimum temperature meaning the engine is not thermally efficient, meaning worse fuel economy etc.

 

Try to adjust the fan cut in switch first.

[mm man]

Either adjust the switch at which the fan switches on. It should switch on as the temp gauge approaches the middle of the temp gauge.
Or if the fan does not have an adjustment switch for when it kicks in you should fit one.
 
The 74 degree thermostat will work, but in my experience the engine will not get up to the optimum temperature meaning the engine is not thermally efficient, meaning worse fuel economy etc.
 
Try to adjust the fan cut in switch first.

I will have a look but I am running all std mg metro switch gear/ rad so I don't think it's adjustable but you never know

Just wondering if the rad temp switch is faulty ?

[jaydee]

Looks like an air lock or something wrong in the piping. You either have a faulty switch or a problem with water circulation.

[mm man]

Looks like an air lock or something wrong in the piping. You either have a faulty switch or a problem with water circulation.

I am going to look at the switch may be at the weekend
Ref air look as it is std metro set up it has a expansion bottle that's has a constant return flow from the thermostat housing I think this takes at all the air ? I stand to be corrected on that .

[Dan]

Exactly how has the car been converted? What hoses are connected to where and is there a bypass?

Edited by Dan, 20 October 2014 - 07:17 PM.

[mm man]

Exactly how has the car been converted? What hoses are connected to where and is there a bypass?

Sorry but when you say bypass do you mean that little hose between the head and block at the back of the motor ( if so no from memory but will check in day light )
As for the hoses I have all the metro ones and all connected the way they came out inc heated inlet manifold and heated oil cooler on oll filter housing

The temp sits at halfway for around 14 miles and if the fan came in then I am sure it would be fine but the last mile it seems to climb and when the fan cuts in at the red line it seems to be to late and to hot for it to cool down to a descent level ....if I put the heater on that helps bring it down at the last minute as well but come summer no way
One other thing that come to mind what if the heater matrix has poor flow it's hot going in and hot coming out ? That's the only thing that I have not had out to flush correctly
Hope that makes sense

[mm man]

I got around to having a look today I changed the rad temp switch and it did cut in a little sooner .
But the thing I noticed today I checked the ignition timing and It was running 16* btdc instead of 10* btdc @ 1500rpm with vacuum pipe removed ( as Haynes recommend ) and when I drove it back home (15miles again ) the temp sat middle way ......happy days !

So my question is will the 6* make it run hotter ?

Thanks

[Carlos W]

I got around to having a look today I changed the rad temp switch and it did cut in a little sooner .
But the thing I noticed today I checked the ignition timing and It was running 16* btdc instead of 10* btdc @ 1500rpm with vacuum pipe removed ( as Haynes recommend ) and when I drove it back home (15miles again ) the temp sat middle way ......happy days !

So my question is will the 6* make it run hotter ?

Thanks

 

Timing too far advanced will make it run hotter

[mm man]

I got around to having a look today I changed the rad temp switch and it did cut in a little sooner .
But the thing I noticed today I checked the ignition timing and It was running 16* btdc instead of 10* btdc @ 1500rpm with vacuum pipe removed ( as Haynes recommend ) and when I drove it back home (15miles again ) the temp sat middle way ......happy days !
So my question is will the 6* make it run hotter ?
Thanks

 
Timing too far advanced will make it run hotter

Cool !!
Thanks very much to all ....

[Carlos W]

 

 

I got around to having a look today I changed the rad temp switch and it did cut in a little sooner .
But the thing I noticed today I checked the ignition timing and It was running 16* btdc instead of 10* btdc @ 1500rpm with vacuum pipe removed ( as Haynes recommend ) and when I drove it back home (15miles again ) the temp sat middle way ......happy days !
So my question is will the 6* make it run hotter ?
Thanks

 
Timing too far advanced will make it run hotter

Cool !!
Thanks very much to all ....

 

 

As will mixture being too lean