10 replies to this topic

[charliedurrant]

Hi,

 

I haven't posted for a long time so sorry I'm jumping back with a request for advice without saying hello.

 

I have a MKII '68 Cooper and one of my hydro units has just gone bang (not at the pipe I'm afraid). I've investigated getting replacement hydro units and as far as I can tell they are not made any more and what tis out there is getting to the point where it might not be effective to try and go with old parts. I've spoken to MiniMania and there are no guarantee with any of the units they have on the shelf

 

So, reluctantly I am looking at conversion to a dry suspension. Since my car is long in the tooth I need to find a pre 1976 solid mounted front sub frame. My first question is does anyone know of a good place to get one second hand? I'd love to say sod it and get a new one but I'm not so liquid as I would like to be - it people think that is foolhardy then I will save the cash.

 

Also I will be replacing the rear sub frame and the radius arms. I was going to galvanise the rear sub frame and since I've never dropped a sub are there any issues with galvanising it - especially with respect to zinc clogging up any threaded parts that I should know about?

 

And, the final question, I can't face doing it all myself - I'd love to, but work will get in the way and I've just finished doing a full top end gasket change on my ridiculously complicated other car - I won't say what it is but it is the kind of car that doesn't win you smiles from other drivers...So what I wondered is, what would be the hour estimate (assuming all nuts come off) for:

 

1) Replace front sub frame (engine out)

2) Replace rear sub frame and radius arms

3) Fit dry suspension parts accordingly

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Charlie :-(

 

References: http://www.calverst...._wet_to_dry.htm

 

 

 

 

 

[Cooperman]

You do not need to replace the front sub frame. The only difference is that the 'wet' one has 3 small lugs right at the top of each tower. Just grind these away or knock them back so that the dry rubber cones will seat properly. I've done it several times and am currently about to do it on a 1964 850.

The only other things you need, apart from rubber cones, trumpets and knuckle joints, are the top damper mountings and a pair of 'dry' front top arms as the wet ones are a different suspension ratio.

The rear sub-frame is geometrically identical, so just swap out the radius arms, fit the rubber springs and long trumpets with new knuckle joints and fit the dampers.

It is all very simple and in fact it can be done with the sub-frames in the car.

Remove all the hydro pipes and it's all done. All-in-all a good thing to do.

[charliedurrant]

Okay....that makes a big difference - they way I'm feeling I would have given you a hug there and then. The car went in for a wheel bearing, then the drive flange was shot, and since it's a cooper they aren't made any more so I decided to bite the bullet and convert to cooper s discs and then this bullet hit.

 

What would your estimate in hours be for a garage to do - they are mini experienced but have never done this conversion. I'm not going to hold anyone to the figure as time changes when at the rock face so to speak, but it would be good to go armed with an idea. All in from what you say we are not talking days.

 

Charlie

[charliedurrant]

All-in-all a good thing to do.

 

 

What do you think about springs instead of rubber ?

 

http://www.clubscmm....hp?topic=5982.0

 

....(I like the fact the above link provides a step by step guide)

 

and springs from

 

http://www.minitastic.co.uk/home1.htm

http://www.theminifo...ing-conversion/

 

If you have had any experience, they do three spring types, what would you choose? Sorry if I'm blatantly seeking advice - just didn't need this problem today...

 

Charlie

[Cooperman]

It's a personal opinion, but coil springs are really for racing where a spring with a higher initial rate than rubber cones can give make for less initial roll into a corner on an absolutely smooth track and thus better 'turn in'. Of course, that doesn't apply on the roads so the finest spring for a Mini is the as-designed rubber spring cone which is a true 'rising rate' spring with exactly the right rate of rising. You might get a coil spring to be almost as good, but it won't be better.

Best advice I can give, unless the car is for racing, is fit rubber cone suspension.

 

A competent mechanic should be able to do the entire front in one day, so long as he fully understands what he is doing. Experience with the Classic \Mini will be essential.

For the rears the fuel tank has to be removed in order to get to the top damper mounting. There is always a risk of the bolts which hold the rear radius arm bracket on seizing and shearing off. Then welding is required and the know-how as to what to weld where.

[charliedurrant]

It's a personal opinion, but coil springs are really for racing ....

 

A competent mechanic should be able to do the entire front in one day, so long as he fully understands what he is doing. Experience with the Classic \Mini will be essential....

 

 

Thank you - I very much appreciate the candid and detailed response.

 

Charlie

[Shifty]

Hello Charlie, long time no see!!

 

Mini mail were doing recon units, not sure if they still are..

 

http://www.minimail.co.uk/parts/

[charliedurrant]

Hello Charlie, long time no see!!

 

 

Yeah it's been a while ~2 years  - I'm still loving the car, every year it gets older I think it goes up in value, I'm however getting older and decreasing in value - it not fair!

 

I called minimail - great service but unfortunately the don't service the innards of the hydro units just the welding of the pipe that goes to it. Shame, but since the mini is a daily driver for my wife I loath to put an old unit on and have it blow up. I really should not have got a MkII with hydro - a bit special needs!  

 

I am tempted towards the sprigs though - probably just because they are 'shiny' however going against Cooperman's words is a daft thing to do.  

 

Charlie

[Dr s]

Personally I'd keep it hydro. Units are available from time to time on eBay and with a pump made from an grease gun you can service it yourself. Either that or build up a fresh set of dry subbies and leave the hydro intact to go back if you choose.

[madaboutcherry]

keep it hydro, it's great.

[charliedurrant]

I don't mind hydro however even minimal who recon the pipes on the hydro units say the replacement ones have no guarantees.

The car is a daily driver and not a show vehicle so in reluctant but comfortable to convert as the parts are not serviceable and not available anymore - it's a shame though...

Charlie