5 replies to this topic

[Paulkitty]

Due to regularly shearing overlong  spacers on a 1275cc 1992 (modified by previous owner to drum brakes) I decided to fit the standard 25mm spacer set from Minispares. Wheel studs needed to be changed due to length and that is where my problems started.

Drive flange did not want separate from the outer wheel bearing...

Hubs removed, new MiniSpares wheel bearings, brake cylinders, link brake pipe and swivels installed. Replaced on vehicle, castle nut correctly torqued and split pin fitted.

Road wheels, when fitted seem very stiff to rotate. Took the car fro very short run - castle nut and flange very hot (brakes fully backed off).

Front end of car in the air again, split pin removed castle nut back-off to around 60NM - road wheel spun much better - Replaced split pin and did 1 mile road test - Still very hot.

Inner bearing spacer not fitted as new bearing set had spacer integral to the bearing. In board spacer fitted between bearing and oil seal.

Any ideas what I have done wrong or should I expect a fair amount of heat (say 60c after 4 miles without applying the brakes)?

 

Thanks Paul.

[robminibcy]

How tight did you do the castle nut up to? If you backed the nut off to 60nm I suspct you've over tightened them. I cant remember the figure exactly but 60nm sounds about right. There is a page on here somewhere with all the torque figures.

[Paulkitty]

Originally set to 68NM- figures taken from the good book of Haynes.

[Paulkitty]

Whoops, the torque setting is too low - Haynes says around 80NM

[Alpenflitzer]

What happens often is that the brake plate is corroded and makes problems to correctly fit the castle nut..Check brake backplates are free of corrosion otherwise it could happen that the cage turns and this will generate enormous heat and distroys the bearing.and the hub.

[Paulkitty]

Thanks for the reply - not sure why the backplate could be an issue. The wheel hubs are in good condition and one side has a new drive flange. Could you explain further please.