3 replies to this topic

[scr]

I'm a few months (on and off) in to my oh-it-failed-the-MOT-let's-see-how-bad-it-really-is Expected few days repair turning into a fairly major going-at-it.

 

And I had a few thoughts / questions that I thought some seasoned members might be able to help with:

 

- we are replacing inner and outer sills. the jacking points in the sides, the square holes in the outer sill to which it looks like the jacking points will be welded - do they need to be open? My thinking is, it's an entry point for muck/water/rust causers. Is it advisable to plate over these holes or am I being a smart alec and ignoring something fundamental? I'm not 100% fussed about originality, I'd rather have sills that last longer. I tend to jack the car up on subframes, never the sills.

 

- we also have most of the floor out and are replacing rear heelboard subframe mounting parts (only small panel either side rather than full heelboard). Which overlaps which when welding back up? rear of floor on top of heelboard lip, or other way round? I seem to remember something about very early minis having this wrong and water getting in. In my head, rear floor underneath lip seems right.

 

- I have had mixed advice / seen differing opinions on how crucial getting the subframe mounting holes in EXACTLY THE SAME POSITION AS THEY WERE - some people seem to think it isn't such a biggie. I have heard about crabbing etc and would rather have a car that drives straight. Do the subframe bushes give much leeway?

 

- after ordering an entire new front floor, there seem to be lots of extra bits (looking at somrford's website) - such as slinging shoe brackets of different types. Are all of these parts necessary - it looks like the ones that attach to inner and outer sills are fairly structural - but the slinging shoe brackets at front of floorpan for example seem just for show / to look like the car was once carried around a factory.

 

- can anybody point me at a good guide / advice on which bits to include and which order to start putting things back together?

 

Cheers!

 

 

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[sonikk4]

Ok fit the Jacking point as this ties the sill to the inner sill crossmember. You can then fill the hole with a metal plate. Rear subframe mounting point position is important especially the heelboard. Now the internal slinging points do add a bit of structural integrity but I never refit them. The outers I cut off. Helps to prevent the numpties from using them to jack the car up on.

[sonikk4]

Sorry should have said, the seat pan sits on top of the heelboard right up to the the companion bins. Inside the bins the closeouts fit on top of the heelboard and the inner sill stiffener on top of that.

Have a look for Wills Mini Special in the Project section. Done all of that and more. Not a complete floor change though.

[Wise Old Elf]

Just picked up a complete floor this morning which has the slinging shoes fitted. It got me wondering if I should of fitted them to the RSP.

But looking at them I am not convinced they add very much strength as the outer sill is welded to the flitch anyway.

 

I will leave them in the new floor as I do not want to start cutting it up but am not fitting them to the RSP.