
The holes for the hinges are not far off the a post.

and it needs to go in, up and over bit more then it'll be spot on hopefully.

Edited by Stu., 21 February 2015 - 11:42 PM.
Posted 21 February 2015 - 11:24 PM
Edited by Stu., 21 February 2015 - 11:42 PM.
Posted 28 February 2015 - 10:24 PM
Edited by Stu., 28 February 2015 - 10:29 PM.
Posted 07 March 2015 - 09:38 PM
Edited by Stu., 19 April 2015 - 07:24 PM.
Posted 08 March 2015 - 07:29 PM
Edited by Stu., 08 March 2015 - 07:42 PM.
Posted 08 March 2015 - 10:59 PM
Posted 08 March 2015 - 11:31 PM
Edited by Stu., 19 April 2015 - 07:24 PM.
Posted 09 March 2015 - 09:38 AM
Looking good :) i'm just about to embark on a full front end replacement on my mini so reading this has been very useful, just in the process of stripping things out and tidying bits up while i get the money together for all the front panels i need.
Are you using genuine or pattern panels?
Posted 09 March 2015 - 01:05 PM
Posted 10 March 2015 - 08:14 PM
Edited by Stu., 10 March 2015 - 08:19 PM.
Posted 15 March 2015 - 09:31 PM
Edited by Stu., 19 April 2015 - 07:25 PM.
Posted 18 March 2015 - 06:45 PM
I wanted to be sure about the paint system I was going for so thought I'd lay up the paints to see how they stood up to impact, scratches and reactions etc.
As I've previously mentioned I'm using the following build up -
2 coats Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc rich primer.
2 coats of Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic.
2 coats (for build up) of Gravitex stone chip
Cellulose primers
Cellulose tocoats
I'm pleased to say I've tried a section of the body with the paint layers up to the Gravitex first coat and it all stands up very well with no reactions, and is very resistant to damage, so I'll be using this system throuought on the undersides. The topsides will have epoxy primer instead of mastic and no Gravitex (obviously).
You can see the three layers here. Dark gray is the Electox, light gray is the epoxy mastic and the black is the Gravitex I laid on stippled with a brush.
Edited by Stu., 18 March 2015 - 06:46 PM.
Posted 19 April 2015 - 08:57 PM
I've not updated my progress for a while because I'd not got much done on Felix. As the weathers warming up I'll be doing work on Mollys paint, but intend to keep things moving along with Felix too if possible.
I re-sprayed Mollys nearside wing a couple of weeks ago, and polished it up a few days ago. I'm quite happy with the results really. My spraying wont win any medals but I dont subscribe to that level of perfection anyway.
I'll be spraying Molly in sections panel by panel, so I'm hoping to have her all done by Autumn.
So once Mollys wing was done I turned my attention back to Felix. After welding up the near side inner wing, I removed the scuttle. I did'nt really want to but the ends were full of filler and I needed access to the top of the bulkhead to undertake repairs.
The corrosion to the passenger side bulkhead top is not too bad, but there must have been a long term leak to the drivers side because the corrosion has completely eaten the bulkhead to the top of the hinge mount. At first I thought I'd have to remove the mount, but realised it was spot welded top and bottom, and the bulkhead is ok at the lower section, so I cut along the middle which allowed me to leave it in place.
The next issue I had was deciding how to sort a poor repair to the top dash rail. Some angled sections had been welded over the existing corroded windscreen lip and I was not happy to leave it, so it had to come out altogether.
This meant I had to fabricate some new metal to replace it. Not easy due to the rail curviture. So I took the old section and made a couple of templates.
I tack welded it to the rough angle required, which turned out to be ok after comparing with the old one.
I thought I'd better offer up the scuttle to make sure I'd got the curve of the section correct, and it seemed to be as close as I needed it to be for now.
Now I was happy with the shape, I tack welded it along it's length and then completed the whole section.
I dressed the welds down. I didnt take them down all the way as this side will be hidden, so there seemed litle point in risking thinning the metal.
The inside of the joint would be difficult to dress the welds, so I made sure they did'nt penetrate too far through. This gave a good clean corner all the way along.
So one I'd dressed it up a bit and cut it back to shape it fitted fairly well. It needs a bit more fettling, and the rail needs cleaning up, but I ran out of time.
So next up will be to clean back the dash rail and weld the new section into the opening. Then I'll dress the windscreen lip to shape. Once I've done this I'll need to form the bulkhead section to fit in the bit I've cut out, which will be fun as its got a relief section to take the bonnet hinge that I'll need to shape.
Edited by Stu., 19 April 2015 - 09:08 PM.
Posted 19 April 2015 - 10:37 PM
Hopefully they'll help to keep the panels tight together for future plug welds.
Where did you get those from? I have some panel pins that are ok as long as not a great deal of pressure is required to get the panels to pull tightly together....
Posted 19 April 2015 - 10:44 PM
Posted 21 April 2015 - 09:58 PM
Edited by Stu., 21 April 2015 - 10:41 PM.
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