5 replies to this topic

[MiniMarine]

So my SPi was running great until it wasn't.  after doing a lot of reading and tinkering with the ECU I decided to simplify the whole system and convert to Carb.  So I pulled out all of the SPi bits including the ECU and relay module.  then i fitted an Aldon Yellow A+ dizzy, a Flame thrower road ignition coil, a heated inlet manifold and HIF44 Carb and a Petral King fuel pressure regulator.  everything is plumbed and throttle cable is connected.  After several hours looking at the wiring diagrams i wired up 3 relays to the ignition switch (starter/fuel pump/ignition) and all the circuits seem to be function as expected.  so then i set the static timing according to the Haynes shop manual.  and alas when i turn the key, the engine turns on the starter motor but nothing else.  I've checked the spark and I'm getting a nice strong blue arch.  and i've checked that there is fuel flowing into, and i haven't messed with any of the settings on the carb because the instructions in the box said that the carb was set up for inital starting. 

 

Also I'm fairly new to minis and this will be my first carbeurated car so please don't assume that i have any prerequsite knowledge.  thanks in advance for all the help.

[cal844]

Have you installed a choke cable and connected it correctly to the carb linkage?

[Minidarren83]

Have you got the dizzy drive in the right way this will reverse your firing order making your timing 180 deg out

[dklawson]

+1 on Darren's comment.

 

You have made major changes to the ignition and fuel system.  Check the following.

Remove the valve cover and with the spark plugs removed turn the engine over in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise as you stand looking at the fan).

Stop when the desired timing marks on the front pulley line up.
Grab the rocker arms above cylinder #1 (#1 is the water pump end of the engine).  If the rocker arms are "tight" and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine over one more complete revolution.  Stop when the timing marks are lined up and the rocker arms above cylinder #1 are "loose" and can be wiggled.  That's #1 near TDC on its firing stroke.

 

Since you already have set the static timing I will not repeat those steps here.  However, double check the static timing with the engine sitting in the position achieved above.  Also... please describe how you arrived at your static timing.  What method did you use?

 

Fit the rotor the dizzy shaft if it is not already fitted.

Offer the dizzy cap up to the distributor and notice at which terminal the rotor is pointing.  

Place the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 on the terminal where the rotor is pointing.

Connect the other end of that plug wire to the spark plug in cylinder #1. 

Looking down on the top of the distributor put the other plug leads on the cap in the order 1-3-4-2 going COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap.  (Again, cylinder #1 is the water pump end, #4 is the clutch end).

 

That will insure your timing is correct and not "out".  If the distributor drive gear was not in the engine in the factory position the plug wires will now be "right" for your setup but may not match what you see in books.

 

How have you set the fuel pressure regulator?  Make sure that the pressure does not exceed about 3 PSI.  As Cal said, make sure your choke is connected and operational.

 

With all that done, try and start the engine and be sure to use the choke.  If it will not try to run, try a simple screening test.  Tip a thimble of fuel down the carb throat and try again to start the engine.  If it fires briefly and dies, you are dealing with a fuel delivery problem.  If the engine makes no attempt to start you are most likely looking at an ignition related problem.

[MiniMarine]

+1 on Darren's comment.

 

You have made major changes to the ignition and fuel system.  Check the following.

Remove the valve cover and with the spark plugs removed turn the engine over in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise as you stand looking at the fan).

Stop when the desired timing marks on the front pulley line up.
Grab the rocker arms above cylinder #1 (#1 is the water pump end of the engine).  If the rocker arms are "tight" and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine over one more complete revolution.  Stop when the timing marks are lined up and the rocker arms above cylinder #1 are "loose" and can be wiggled.  That's #1 near TDC on its firing stroke.

 

Since you already have set the static timing I will not repeat those steps here.  However, double check the static timing with the engine sitting in the position achieved above.  Also... please describe how you arrived at your static timing.  What method did you use?

 

Fit the rotor the dizzy shaft if it is not already fitted.

Offer the dizzy cap up to the distributor and notice at which terminal the rotor is pointing.  

Place the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 on the terminal where the rotor is pointing.

Connect the other end of that plug wire to the spark plug in cylinder #1. 

Looking down on the top of the distributor put the other plug leads on the cap in the order 1-3-4-2 going COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap.  (Again, cylinder #1 is the water pump end, #4 is the clutch end).

 

That will insure your timing is correct and not "out".  If the distributor drive gear was not in the engine in the factory position the plug wires will now be "right" for your setup but may not match what you see in books.

 

How have you set the fuel pressure regulator?  Make sure that the pressure does not exceed about 3 PSI.  As Cal said, make sure your choke is connected and operational.

 

With all that done, try and start the engine and be sure to use the choke.  If it will not try to run, try a simple screening test.  Tip a thimble of fuel down the carb throat and try again to start the engine.  If it fires briefly and dies, you are dealing with a fuel delivery problem.  If the engine makes no attempt to start you are most likely looking at an ignition related problem.

 

Doug,

Thanks for the detailed advice.  I think that you have me pointed in the right direction.  With the holidays coming up it'll probably be a few weeks before I really get to try anything that you've suggested, but based on what you're saying I believe that I've got the set up 180 out.  I'll post here again with my results. 

[MiniMarine]

+1 on Darren's comment.

 

You have made major changes to the ignition and fuel system.  Check the following.

Remove the valve cover and with the spark plugs removed turn the engine over in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise as you stand looking at the fan).

Stop when the desired timing marks on the front pulley line up.
Grab the rocker arms above cylinder #1 (#1 is the water pump end of the engine).  If the rocker arms are "tight" and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine over one more complete revolution.  Stop when the timing marks are lined up and the rocker arms above cylinder #1 are "loose" and can be wiggled.  That's #1 near TDC on its firing stroke.

 

Since you already have set the static timing I will not repeat those steps here.  However, double check the static timing with the engine sitting in the position achieved above.  Also... please describe how you arrived at your static timing.  What method did you use?

 

Fit the rotor the dizzy shaft if it is not already fitted.

Offer the dizzy cap up to the distributor and notice at which terminal the rotor is pointing.  

Place the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 on the terminal where the rotor is pointing.

Connect the other end of that plug wire to the spark plug in cylinder #1. 

Looking down on the top of the distributor put the other plug leads on the cap in the order 1-3-4-2 going COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap.  (Again, cylinder #1 is the water pump end, #4 is the clutch end).

 

That will insure your timing is correct and not "out".  If the distributor drive gear was not in the engine in the factory position the plug wires will now be "right" for your setup but may not match what you see in books.

 

How have you set the fuel pressure regulator?  Make sure that the pressure does not exceed about 3 PSI.  As Cal said, make sure your choke is connected and operational.

 

With all that done, try and start the engine and be sure to use the choke.  If it will not try to run, try a simple screening test.  Tip a thimble of fuel down the carb throat and try again to start the engine.  If it fires briefly and dies, you are dealing with a fuel delivery problem.  If the engine makes no attempt to start you are most likely looking at an ignition related problem.

 

Ok, she's starting right up now, but I've been having a hell of a time getting her tuned right.  where I'm at is she'll idle nicely at 1000 rpms and there is nice throttle response when I'm in neutral.  but when driving on anything other than perfectly flat road causes her to bog down and start popping.  So first off I'm not sure if the popping is misfiring because it kind of sounds like the dashpot piston is slamming up and down, I've checked several times that there is oil in it.  If it is misfiring I have tried advancing the timing but that doesn't seem to be changing anything.  it's currently about 10 deg BTDC at 1000rpm.  which based on this attached graph is way too much, but there is very poor throttle response if I back it off to 5, and way more bogging and popping so much that I won't even try to drive it.  As I've said before I'm pretty new to carbs and timing so I'm sure that I'm doing something wrong here.  thanks again for all the help.

Attached Files

•  Aldon Yellow Advance Curve graph.pdf   6.59K   6 downloads