13 replies to this topic

[dennismini93]

hi guys.

you know the in line fuses that sit in the white blocks roughly behind the air box?? can i change these for a fuse box like in the link bellow. Its just that mine are getting a bit old and the the connection they make is often loose and makes my electrics a bit unreliable.

i was thinking of fitting something like this so i can keep the glass fuses but so its a bit more reliable and also easier to check to see if any have blown. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35da54bb40

[cal844]

Id upgrade to blade type fuses as these are cheaper and more readily available imho. Im currently waiting on my next fusebox coming, blade type with 4 connectors per fuse :)

[dennismini93]

Id upgrade to blade type fuses as these are cheaper and more readily available imho. Im currently waiting on my next fusebox coming, blade type with 4 connectors per fuse :)

i looked at this but people on here seemed to be unsure as to whether you put like for like or 1/2 rated fuses. i just thought id go for the retro look and save the agro by getting a glass type box.

[cal844]

I go for as close to half as i can, i cant remember what ratings i used on my 998(1989 registered)

[1984mini25]

Glass and blade fuses are rated the same. I forget which, but one type the rating is continuous and the other it at witch point they blow.

 

You could replace the plastic inline fuse holders with a separate standard fuse box, finding somewhere the mount it and extend the wires. But then the plastic fuse holders are easily available from the likes of mapin, eBay etc.

[dennismini93]

Glass and blade fuses are rated the same. I forget which, but one type the rating is continuous and the other it at witch point they blow.

iv read glass is rated at blow point and blade continuous. this means the blow point of a blade can typically be twice the rating therefore why you fit the lower rated fuse???

 

You could replace the plastic inline fuse holders with a separate standard fuse box, finding somewhere the mount it and extend the wires. But then the plastic fuse holders are easily available from the likes of mapin, eBay etc.

i dont like the plastic ones, if the engine rocks it hits them and they arnt as easy to check if there is a suspect blown fuse or connection issue. i was going to mount the new box next to the standard one orrrrr run a bigger box and move it inside like on a MPi. this will keep the dirt and rain out (i hope) AND be easier to check

[AVV IT]

I've never done it personally, but I've seen the in line fuses replaced with a second fuse box on a few cars over the years. As I understand it, there's an issue with clearance when doing this though (particularly with some aftermarket/alloy inlets), which is why people often locate them further along the bulkhead towards the wiper motor. That may well require some of the wiring to be extended a little though, so if you're planning on doing this, then it might be a good idea to get hold of an old/damaged front loom, so that you can splice in the correctly coloured wiring for each circuit.

[dennismini93]

I've never done it personally, but I've seen the in line fuses replaced with a second fuse box on a few cars over the years. As I understand it, there's an issue with clearance when doing this though (particularly with some aftermarket/alloy inlets), which is why people often locate them further along the bulkhead towards the wiper motor. That may well require some of the wiring to be extended a little though, so if you're planning on doing this, then it might be a good idea to get hold of an old/damaged front loom, so that you can splice in the correctly coloured wiring for each circuit.

 

thank you for the advice i'll look into getting hold of one.

[cal844]

Glass fuses are rated for blow, (will blow at whatever is printed on the fuse)

Blade fuse is the continuous rating ( will blow at roughly double whats printed on the fuse)

[Dan]

Also most blade fuses are open, glass fuses are enclosed. For open fuses we must apply a 5% de-rating to the cables when designing a circuit as they will take longer to heat up to the point of failure. This is not taken in to account in the original wiring design as the car is meant to run glass fuses.

Edited by Dan, 10 December 2014 - 09:55 AM.

[dennismini93]

so if i just fit a glass fuse box to replace the in-line ones then the only modifications i will need is to make the wires reach the box. blade fuse box sounds like more hassle than benifit IMO

[1984mini25]

The way I've seen converting to blade fuses, you have 3 options. One, Replace the fuses 'like for like' and plead ignorance. Two, work out the correct fuse ratings and redesign the wiring were needed or option three, convert to the later internal fuse box and loom.

 

Although with the standard glass fusesbox and inline fuse holders, proving they are in good condition along with the loom and connectors they are pretty much trouble free.

[cal844]

I admit i have yet to have trouble with my 1275 wiring/ fuses, the car is a 1993 and had 45k miles, runs better than most cars out there to be honest

[KernowCooper]

If you plead ignorance and fit like for like on the fuses you rish a fire in the wiring if a short occurs, as mentioned its half the rating for a Blade fuse in place of a Glass ones, its covered in the FAQs Electrical Section