As Carbon has suggested, you can cut down the trumpets, a cheap way of doing it and has a very satifactory result, or you could go for a set of Hilos (at least on the front). Many of the Hilos have a bigger flange than standard, so apart from being adjustable, they also give an increase in the rate when at the mid to higher compressions (of the rubber cone), which I've found handy on lowered cars, they bottom out less.
I'd also suggest replacing the knuckle joint cup (as a minimum) which you're in there.
Actually, sorry to contradict on that and I do know that's what's in DVs book, however, I never found that to be right when adjusting Hilos, so I measured a couple of front arms one day. They are actually 4.5:1
Out of curiosity I measured up a set of dry front arms, the distance from pivot pin to centre of knuckle is about 36mm and distance from pivot pin to centre of ball joint is about 180mm. So looks like the ratio is closer to 5:1 than 3:1 unless I have not measured right...
Also checked the rear dry arms, I reckon corresponding numbers are 55mm and 300mm, so ratio here is about 5.5:1
Bahaha,,, butter fingers again! Sorry, the figure for the front is 4.75:1 (dropped the 7 - Doh!). I've not measured a rear Mini One, but I did measure a Big Wheel Moke one and that was bang on 5:1. Yes, read this to check this time! And with the glasses on!!
I made my measurements, not by measuring the arms though, I did them by dry assembling them and measuring the movements.

Either way, the ratio (at least on the front) is a long way from the commonly quoted 3:1!!!!!
Edited by Moke Spider, 28 December 2014 - 07:13 PM.