Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Lowering My Mk4.?


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#16 racingbob

racingbob

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,061 posts
  • Location: Hampshire

Posted 27 December 2014 - 06:55 PM

If you have the beans Minisport are doing a sport ride kit - 4 Bilstein dampers , 4 adjusta rides ,negative camber arms and rear brackets  , polybushes and tie rods for £254 !

 

I cant find it on the website but have it on a leaflet . It might be worth giving them a ring as thats everything you will need for a complete package .

 

Or see if Minispares can do something similar for the price ?

if your going to negative bottom arm I prefer the adjustable ones



#17 carbon

carbon

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,590 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 27 December 2014 - 08:11 PM

Here's a useful link to 'how to' write-up by Keith Calver on the traditional 'hobos' way of lowering dry Minis : http://www.calverst...._dry_set-up.htm



#18 b_sdaddy

b_sdaddy

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 643 posts
  • Location: Diksmuide, Belgium

Posted 28 December 2014 - 01:32 PM

Cheers all!

 

It's something I'm going to get my local mini garage to do. With that in mind, there's their labour to add on!

 

But having said that, when the car's up on the ramp, is there anything 'suspension' orientated that could do with replacing with new.

 

The pieces that only cost a few pennies: If I'm going to get a set of Hi-Los & a full set of original knuckles/caps, surely a 'complete' set of new rubber stuff would be a wise investment. The car's in the air with the wheels off, so why not.?

 

A list would be appreciated,

 

 

cheers



#19 carbon

carbon

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,590 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 28 December 2014 - 05:22 PM

As Carbon has suggested, you can cut down the trumpets, a cheap way of doing it and has a very satifactory result, or you could go for a set of Hilos (at least on the front). Many of the Hilos have a bigger flange than standard, so apart from being adjustable, they also give an increase in the rate when at the mid to higher compressions (of the rubber cone), which I've found handy on lowered cars, they bottom out less.

 

I'd also suggest replacing the knuckle joint cup (as a minimum) which you're in there.

 

 

 ratio is 3:1 on front

 

Actually, sorry to contradict on that and I do know that's what's in DVs book, however, I never found that to be right when adjusting Hilos, so I measured a couple of front arms one day. They are actually 4.5:1

Out of curiosity I measured up a set of dry front arms, the distance from pivot pin to centre of knuckle is about 36mm and distance from pivot pin to centre of ball joint is about 180mm. So looks like the ratio is closer to 5:1 than 3:1 unless I have not measured right...

 

Also checked the rear dry arms, I reckon corresponding numbers are 55mm and 300mm, so ratio here is about 5.5:1



#20 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,684 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 28 December 2014 - 07:12 PM



 



As Carbon has suggested, you can cut down the trumpets, a cheap way of doing it and has a very satifactory result, or you could go for a set of Hilos (at least on the front). Many of the Hilos have a bigger flange than standard, so apart from being adjustable, they also give an increase in the rate when at the mid to higher compressions (of the rubber cone), which I've found handy on lowered cars, they bottom out less.

 

I'd also suggest replacing the knuckle joint cup (as a minimum) which you're in there.

 

 



 ratio is 3:1 on front

 

Actually, sorry to contradict on that and I do know that's what's in DVs book, however, I never found that to be right when adjusting Hilos, so I measured a couple of front arms one day. They are actually 4.5:1

Out of curiosity I measured up a set of dry front arms, the distance from pivot pin to centre of knuckle is about 36mm and distance from pivot pin to centre of ball joint is about 180mm. So looks like the ratio is closer to 5:1 than 3:1 unless I have not measured right...

 

Also checked the rear dry arms, I reckon corresponding numbers are 55mm and 300mm, so ratio here is about 5.5:1

 

 

Bahaha,,, butter fingers again!  Sorry, the figure for the front is 4.75:1 (dropped the 7 - Doh!). I've not measured a rear Mini One, but I did measure a Big Wheel Moke one and that was bang on 5:1. Yes, read this to check this time! And with the glasses on!!

 

I made my measurements, not by measuring the arms though, I did them by dry assembling them and measuring the movements.

 

DSCN1452_zps744ce4be.jpg

 

 

Either way, the ratio (at least on the front) is a long way from the commonly quoted 3:1!!!!!


Edited by Moke Spider, 28 December 2014 - 07:13 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users