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Switching To Non Ballast


Best Answer KernowCooper , 05 January 2015 - 03:12 PM

BPR6 would have enough heat range for a road car, BPR7 would be a bit cold for burning off and rich deposits running a weber with a non standard cam. BPR5s run hotter but you dont want a hole in a piston.

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#1 Dusky

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 09:14 AM

Hi peeeps!
Just noticed in running a balast setup of wires in my car,but in using non ballast dizzy!!
Where can I easly take a switched live ? Most people say to take or from the fuse box, but wich terminal should I pick? My wiring is a big mess( was planning on sorting or this summer) si Amy advice is welcome:)

To the coil I have now a pink/white wire and a yellow/white, dont know where the yellow is for.

10914836_757439797657549_423817927647139
Cheers

#2 cal844

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 09:46 AM

What i do is find the pink/white connection at the fuse box end(white wires to the left of fuse #1, viewed from front of car) then use a piggy back spade(which i solder on, then wrap the soldered end in heat shrink or tape), to make the connections for the new wire so that you can easily swap back to the ballast set up when needed

Piggy back spade connectors: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ad80b6863

Male and Female spade connectors: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43aac596d3

Edited by cal844, 05 January 2015 - 09:47 AM.


#3 Dusky

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:23 AM

What i do is find the pink/white connection at the fuse box end(white wires to the left of fuse #1, viewed from front of car) then use a piggy back spade(which i solder on, then wrap the soldered end in heat shrink or tape), to make the connections for the new wire so that you can easily swap back to the ballast set up when needed

Piggy back spade connectors: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ad80b6863

Male and Female spade connectors: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43aac596d3

SO the ignition circuit is unfused actually? :P



#4 KernowCooper

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:36 AM

Correct the White wire is from the Ignition Switch on Fuse 1 and Unfused.

 

Your White/yellow is from the starter solenoid so when cranking the 9v coil gets 12v while the key is in the crank position, and drops back to 9v from the White/pink when running.


Edited by KernowCooper, 05 January 2015 - 10:39 AM.


#5 Ethel

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:52 AM

No such think as a ballasted/unballasted dizzy.

 

It's the coil that makes the difference, if you tell us what you have we can suggest how best to proceed.



#6 Dusky

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:05 AM

I think I know what to do now :)
Have a electronic ignition coil with a high energy powerspark setup atm:)

#7 Cooperman

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:24 AM

That is an excellent alteration to make. That pink/white wire has been known to overheat and burn out. When it does it is a several hour job to strip out the front loom and replace all the wires which that pink wire takes out with it when it burns.

I've repaired three of those and the last one took me 5 hours plus a lot of cable.

If you have a ballasted coil and want to keep it (can't think why anyone would) then it is best to replace the pink/white wire with a resistor and run a standard cable from ignition switch to resistor and from there to the coil. Dave (Kernow... ) will advise on this as he is the 'electrical ace' on here.

Best thing is just to fit a 12 volt coil, which is what the vast majority of Minis always had.



#8 KernowCooper

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:46 AM

+1 on going to a 12v coil setup



#9 Dusky

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:46 AM

That is an excellent alteration to make. That pink/white wire has been known to overheat and burn out. When it does it is a several hour job to strip out the front loom and replace all the wires which that pink wire takes out with it when it burns.

I've repaired three of those and the last one took me 5 hours plus a lot of cable.

If you have a ballasted coil and want to keep it (can't think why anyone would) then it is best to replace the pink/white wire with a resistor and run a standard cable from ignition switch to resistor and from there to the coil. Dave (Kernow... ) will advise on this as he is the 'electrical ace' on here.

Best thing is just to fit a 12 volt coil, which is what the vast majority of Minis always had.

I changed to a 12volts coil this summer :D

Basically I've been using my mini with a 12volts coil, powered with 9 volts.. can't be good for the ignition quality me thinks!

Didn't know I wwas on a balasted ignition, seller told me it was already 12volts, and as I have troubles with my eyes in the 'dark' I couldn't really see the pink/white wire.

Wasn't untill recently when the engine was out and the bonnet removed that I noticed this :P


Edited by Dusky, 05 January 2015 - 11:50 AM.


#10 Dusky

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 01:15 PM

All sorted now :)

But while I'm at it, for a fast road mini 998, would you choose NGK BPR7 , 6 or 5 sparkplugs?

Need a new set as suddenly 2 sparkplugs are broken ( no spark, although they are clean) :P

cheers



#11 KernowCooper

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 03:12 PM   Best Answer

BPR6 would have enough heat range for a road car, BPR7 would be a bit cold for burning off and rich deposits running a weber with a non standard cam. BPR5s run hotter but you dont want a hole in a piston.



#12 cal844

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:00 PM

Hi use BPR6ES in my standard 998 and my 1275 sprite, both on Su carbs though!




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