11 replies to this topic

[steble]

Has anybody bought these cheap ebay rear camber brackets?

 

Are they any good? or are they just cheap nasty metal and weak and useless?

 

If so what are the best ones to get, I did look at KAD but can't justify £120 for some lol

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a89e721fe

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5417c04440

 

 

Cheers

Steve

 

[minisilverbullet]

I would look into getting a set that also allow for toe adjustment. 

 

Personally I went for the Minisport ones, which have a similar design to the KAD ones. 

 

Some members have mentioned, problems fitting any kind of the cheaper brackets due to the location of the holes. I never experienced any issue. 

[DannyTip]

I have KAD ones.  They are a lot more study than the ones you linked.  They still took a little fettling to fit though.

[nicklouse]

The ones you have on your car now and a file.

Job done.

Cost zero.

[carbon]

For a fast road set-up the best rear camber brackets are the ones you already have fitted... they just need modifying slightly.

 

Accurately measure the camber angles on both rear wheels, then slot the holes in the bracket to allow the radius arm to move up and get the wheels so they have zero camber both sides.For each degree of additional negative you need about 4mm of 'slot'.

 

See page 158 of David Vizard's 'How to Modify your Mini' for the full instructions.

 

To be sure it won't move you can also weld a washer in place.

[racingbob]

I just filed my standard ones up about 8 mm

 

lifted wheel up hard and mate done up nut

 

1/4 deg camber both sides, happy with that for my road car

 

haven't worried about rear toe, but minispares sell some shims

 

will get some tho sometime

[Cooperman]

On the rear suspension the toe setting is equally as important as the camber - some say more so - and to fit brackets which don't allow the to-in to be set to between 1 mm & 2 mm is pretty pointless. 

You don't actually need adjustable brackets and it is not difficult to set both camber & toe-in by filing or shimming the brackets as necessary and welding a large washer onto the bracket to hold the setting. Cost is 10 p each for the washer plus a bit of MIG gas & wire.

[steble]

I have done that before myself.

But I was looking to have the adjustability this time, however if they are prone to moving again after setting them I'll might think again lol

[racingbob]

mine been fine, been over 3 years now just filing

 

reason I did mine was it had loads of positive camber

 

looked awful and does nothing for handling like that

 

 

it made a difference on my race car when done rear track

 

stopped understeer on long sweeper bend

[nicklouse]

I have done that before myself.
But I was looking to have the adjustability this time, however if they are prone to moving again after setting them I'll might think again lol

Why do you need the adjustability?

Road car about 1/2 degree will be fine. Race car maybe a little more.


I have adjustable. Why? Custom made trailing arm beam for racing.

[steble]

Mines not a road car, its my vtec track toy.

I was going to get it all adjustable then take it somewhere to get it all alighned up properly :)

[nicklouse]

Road tyres? Not too critical. You can't get the grip anyway.

Slicks then yes it is a bit more critical.

But even then what track useage makes differences to how you want it to behave.