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Just Bought A 1275 Engine But What Now?


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#1 TheJack

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 04:56 PM

So I just got my hands on a 1275 engine for £200! Here are some pictures (these are from the seller as I haven't had time to take any)

 

10906228_10204826137787111_1235866744084

 

10891519_10204826138867138_2436348194335

 

10923540_10204826138227122_2385333666969

 

Now what do I do? It's going to be a carb but don't know what is good for a 1275 a single or twin? I don't think this needs rebuilding as it only has just been taken out of the mini! If it does need a full rebuild then I will consider to get it bored to a 1380! But if I was to just give it a good clean and service what do I need? New gaskets? And what goes on to the engine like the alternator, carbs, distributor etc! I need a good shopping list please  :D



#2 Cooperman

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 05:09 PM

Many people, me included, will never fit an engine of unknown history to a Mini. Just because it was running when it came out doesn't mean it is in good condition.

Always strip & inspect all of the engine before fitting.

If re-building always re-bore it to the next size up. At 1380 it would need to be offset-bored and at the next re-bore it would be very expensive and maybe impossible to re-build it and a new block would be needed. There will never be any new A-series blocks made, so why risk writing off a block for the sake of gaining a couple of bhp. Go from 1275 to 1293, then 1310 then 1330. At next re-build sleeve back to 1275.



#3 Covert

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 05:27 PM

Strip and find out what the condition is like, don't bore out to 1380, just bore out to then next size up.

#4 TheJack

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 05:44 PM

Could I rebuild it without reboring it? So it stays as a 1275?



#5 Cooperman

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 05:53 PM

As with all mechanical things, it depends on how worn it is. It is a bit like saying that you have bought a car, will it be OK to drive on the existing tyres? It depends on how worn they are.

Engines & engineering is about measuring the wear and re-conditioning/replacing as necessary.

So you take the engine off of the gearbox, remove the cylinder head, take out the pistons and con-rods, remove the crankshaft and measure everything. Then, and only then, can a decision be made as to what is needed.



#6 Daviewonder

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 06:00 PM

Just get it in there! If it has issues then rebuild it, if it doesn't then happy days.
 
 
Please note this is just what I would do and not necessarily the best thing to do  :)

Edited by Daviewonder, 10 January 2015 - 06:04 PM.


#7 fwdracer

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 06:23 PM

Convert the clutch to a Mini one - new clutch arm and slave cylinder - currently has a verto metro set-up :shifty:



#8 ANON

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 06:37 PM

fresh coat of sloppily applied red paint=worn to death engine



#9 cal844

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 06:58 PM

Just get it in there! If it has issues then rebuild it, if it doesn't then happy days.  Please note this is just what I would do and not necessarily the best thing to do  :)


+1

#10 Spider

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 07:34 PM

So I just got my hands on a 1275 engine for £200!

 

Now what do I do?

 

 

Easy, give it here :-)

 

 

If you are on a budget, look it over, maybe change the timing chain and some gaskets, seals then fit it and drive it. If there's any issues, this really is the easiest way to find them, next to stripping it down, which may or may not mean a re-build, but regardless would cost some money. I'd be hesitant to suggest stripping it down, just for a look as you'll be disturbing too many critical items and risk damage to what may have been otherwise good components.

 

 

Could I rebuild it without reboring it? So it stays as a 1275?

 

I always advocate a re-bore, if for no other reason than to true up the bores, not only to be sure they are round but also perpendicular to the crank line. I did once do an engine for a chap who did not want his engine to be any bigger than 1275, so it was bored and sleeved back to stock size.



#11 Ethel

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 08:07 PM

First take the rocker cover off and turn it over by hand to see if everything moves as it should

 

You can do a compression test out of the car and get a decent idea of the crank end float. It really depends on how much you're willing and able to spend on it. Taking it to bits just to inspect will cost £30-40, in gaskets alone, and you could triple that to make it worth the effort.

 

It looks to be originally from a Mini, so fitting it shouldn't offer any extra headaches. Looks like a thermostat housing, and studs, is needed though. Along with a bit of thought about a bypass for it.

 

Is it replacing a 998? Everything will swap over apart from the 'stat housing and radiator bracket.



#12 Stu1961

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 08:17 PM

Re-build it, great sense of satisfaction if you do it yourself and easily the best way to learn about engines and how they work. Plenty of folk on here who will help you out all you have to do is ask and someone will come along to answer any queries you may have. 

 

Your engine has come out of a Mini judging by the engine mounts, radiator bracket and crankcase breather on the flywheel housing so your clutch setup will be ok just needs a slave cylinder and slave cylinder mount bracket.   



#13 bikenutmart

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Posted 10 January 2015 - 09:48 PM

I know exactly what you shoud do, sell it to me for £220, giving you a 10% profit !!!!! Mart.






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