5 replies to this topic

[tom1]

I know this has been covered before and I have had a look at the answers but here goes. This is on a track mini, build from a bare shell. So the wiring loom is a one off based on a 76 mini wiring diagram. The fault is the usual gauge does not move at all when the mini should be at normal temp. If you put the sender wire to earth then the gauge slowly goes off the end of the reading. I am running a voltage stabilizer made for me and it is a Smiths gauge, this is the second sender I have used and here is a list of what it is compatible with.

Mini Clubman 1000  1970-82

Mini Clubman 1100 , 1275 GT  1969-80

Mini 850  1970-80

Mini 1000  1970-92

Mini 1100  1976-80

Mini Cooper 1275 , 1.3i  1990>>

Mini Cooper S 1275  1970-71

Mini Cooper Si  1992>>

Mini ERA  1989>>

Any answer gratefully received. 

[dklawson]

You said the stabilizer was made for you.  I assume it is electronic, not the old, original electromechanical type,  Is that right?

 

If it is electronic, use a multimeter set to measure volts and with the gauge powered up measure between earth and the gauge terminal the voltage stabilizer is connected to.  What voltage do you measure?

[tom1]

Yes it is electronic sort. I have left my meter at my Mothers house, doing some DIY for her hope to get it back tomorrow. It's a bit old fashioned, it's a swinging needle not digital. Will post as soon as I can.    

[Spider]

I think I'm think the same as Doug, if the Gauge moves slowly when the sender wire is shorted to earth, then there may not be enough volts there to drive the gauge properly. Some gauges need a direct 12V feed but most Smiths ones need a stabiliser (not all).  Being a Track car though, I feel you maybe better off with a Capillary type Gauge.

[tom1]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this . The volt meter I have is the old fashioned type with a needle. I would say that I am getting 9 volts. 

[dklawson]

Did you "zero" the meter before using it and have you checked your car's battery with the meter to see how close its readings may be?  Analog meters typically have an adjusting screw on the panel meter so you can set the zero before starting to take voltage or resistance measurements.

 

Regardless, 9V is not too bad.  Obviously it's 10% low compared to 10V so you would expect your temperature gauge to be a little low but 9V is not low enough that the gauge should sit on "cold" like you said it has been doing.  At this point I would see if you can borrow a similar Smiths temp gauge and see how it performs with your new sender and stabilizer.