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Seam Sealer


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#1 acky

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 07:48 AM

What can you use to replicate the sealer you find round the seams of the car

#2 stickycreambun

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 09:35 AM

Seam sealer, either brush on from a tin or mastic gun tube. I have a ton of upol one, perfectly good, you can geta nice eedge by using masking tape same as decorating.

#3 F1L8EY

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 09:38 AM

http://www.ebay.co.u...ff14=108&ff19=0

 

search the forum but I'm sure people just use seam sealer like this on from upol



#4 sonikk4

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 09:49 AM

There are various sealants out there. Upol is good along with tiger seal etc. DO NOT use any silicon based product.

If you can get your hands on it Proseal aircraft sem kits. PS870B2 or B 1/2. This has a temperature range of -50 to something like +60. Over paintable, oil proof ( hydraulic and engine oil) and of course flexible. Once on its a complete sod to remove if applied correctly.

#5 One step at a time

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:08 AM

Double post.

Edited by One step at a time, 19 January 2015 - 10:09 AM.


#6 One step at a time

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:08 AM

There's one call Tiger seal. Comes in a tube it's flexible and you can over paint it.

#7 F1L8EY

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:35 AM

There are various sealants out there. Upol is good along with tiger seal etc. DO NOT use any silicon based product.

If you can get your hands on it Proseal aircraft sem kits. PS870B2 or B 1/2. This has a temperature range of -50 to something like +60. Over paintable, oil proof ( hydraulic and engine oil) and of course flexible. Once on its a complete sod to remove if applied correctly.

 

there is another product to remove aircraft PRC... ill dig out the product code for you tomorrow. its the only thing that works. that or rubbing it down for weeks with scotchbrite. I was thinking of using PRC as well. b1/2 refers to the time it takes to cure. you can get b2 (2 hours) and b12 which both give you a bit more time to work with if your not in  a rush :D



#8 OhDear

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:54 AM

Halfords do a tin for 16. Does what's needed I find it OK

#9 1984mini25

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 01:23 PM

I've found the upol grey strip stuff that you brush on not only isn't smell friendly, but also dries out and crack with age. Instead I've been using a sealant similar to tiger seal but much cheaper. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20d0960fe4



#10 sonikk4

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 02:00 PM

There are various sealants out there. Upol is good along with tiger seal etc. DO NOT use any silicon based product.
If you can get your hands on it Proseal aircraft sem kits. PS870B2 or B 1/2. This has a temperature range of -50 to something like +60. Over paintable, oil proof ( hydraulic and engine oil) and of course flexible. Once on its a complete sod to remove if applied correctly.

 
there is another product to remove aircraft PRC... ill dig out the product code for you tomorrow. its the only thing that works. that or rubbing it down for weeks with scotchbrite. I was thinking of using PRC as well. b1/2 refers to the time it takes to cure. you can get b2 (2 hours) and b12 which both give you a bit more time to work with if your not in  a rush :D

The numbers refer to the working time so 2 hrs for B2 and 1/2 hour for B1/2. The cure time is considerably longer. It all depends on heat and humidity.

#11 F1L8EY

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 02:09 PM

Potato potato ;) (that doesn't look right in text but it would if you said them differently) haha, have you used it in a automotive environment ??



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 03:18 PM

Potato potato ;) (that doesn't look right in text but it would if you said them differently) haha, have you used it in a automotive environment ??

 

Yes i have, my clubby has it on the wings to scuttle gap and under the inner wing to wing gap. My lads mini is completely sealed with it and the Mini i have just done a body resto on has it as well. I have used it on other cars as well.



#13 F1L8EY

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 07:17 PM

Nice, will pick some up then... i thought also of using JC5A for assemblies when they are bolted to things like the servo bolted to the bulkhead as a corrosion

inhibitor what do you think ?? Obviously in aircraft there are very few metal to metal dry assemblies...



#14 sonikk4

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 07:58 PM

Nice, will pick some up then... i thought also of using JC5A for assemblies when they are bolted to things like the servo bolted to the bulkhead as a corrosion

inhibitor what do you think ?? Obviously in aircraft there are very few metal to metal dry assemblies...

 

Ahh nastinox, yep it should work well especially on things like subframe mounts like the heelboard. I use Nickel Never Seez on exhaust manifold bolts and studs.



#15 minidaves

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 08:20 PM

and dont forget to etch prime before you seam seal






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