50 replies to this topic

[CharlesK]

 

Here's a picture of my wheel. Are these the right wheel nuts for it and are my studs long enough for this kind of wheel?

 

Thanks :)

 

edit: The stud without a nut is the one that was still attached when the other 3 studs broke and i bent it back using a hammer to get the wheel back on so it's not totally straight, won't take a nut either but i had to to get the wheel back on (2 "good" studs were taken from the left front wheel)

Edited by CharlesK, 03 February 2015 - 06:46 PM.

[Spitz]

Those look like the Rover type nuts that have a thin chrome shell over the proper metal....not positive they are correct for Ultrlites....you'll have to check that bevel.
Thjose wheels look like they have inserts......so may well be the wrong bevel.

The one stud looks the correct length, but that other one is either broken or too short.....what is under the other two nuts?

[Cooperman]

They look like they need the Minilite-type wheel nuts with a sleeved portion to align the wheel.

 

I have twice lost a front wheel. The first time was when one of the early wheels (1959 - 1960) sheared off at about 60 mph on a country road. I had to stop & fit the spare. The second was on my 'S' on a special stage of a rally in Belgium at about 80 mph when the wheel nuts came loose due to new paint on the inside face of my new Minilites cracking from the brake heat. That was quite noisy as the bottom joint ran along ther tarmac road and destroyed the lower ball joint. All quite interesting really  .

[minisilverbullet]

The torque figure for wheel nuts will depend more on the wheel type than the stud, eg Alloys are torqued less that steels... Some mini wheels, like revo's, D1's and the like which use a sleeved nut also have different torque figures...

 

Steel wheels  - 40-45lbft ( 60 nm )

 

Alloys wheels - 37 lbft ( 50 nm )

You don't happen to know the torque figure for sleeved nuts?

[lawrie124]

We race minis on the oval circuit.
I have lost count the number of times I have seen a mini lose a wheel.
But when you see people using long breaker bars tighten them up as tight as you can get them you understand why.

[CharlesK]

Those look like the Rover type nuts that have a thin chrome shell over the proper metal....not positive they are correct for Ultrlites....you'll have to check that bevel.
Thjose wheels look like they have inserts......so may well be the wrong bevel.

The one stud looks the correct length, but that other one is either broken or too short.....what is under the other two nuts?

 

The one stud sticking out is the same as the ones under the nuts, the missing one has completely sheared off.

would the minilite nuts fit my wheels? how would i go about finding the right nuts for the wheels?

[CharlesK]

They look like they need the Minilite-type wheel nuts with a sleeved portion to align the wheel.

 

I have twice lost a front wheel. The first time was when one of the early wheels (1959 - 1960) sheared off at about 60 mph on a country road. I had to stop & fit the spare. The second was on my 'S' on a special stage of a rally in Belgium at about 80 mph when the wheel nuts came loose due to new paint on the inside face of my new Minilites cracking from the brake heat. That was quite noisy as the bottom joint ran along ther tarmac road and destroyed the lower ball joint. All quite interesting really  .

 

very interesting indeed are you positive it's the minilite type nuts*? if not, how do i go about finding the right nuts?

 

edit: *(minilite sleeved nuts)

Edited by CharlesK, 03 February 2015 - 11:40 PM.

[Marlin]

I hate that so many shops put wheel nuts on with an impact gun.  That is such a bad practice.  

[Cooperman]

 

They look like they need the Minilite-type wheel nuts with a sleeved portion to align the wheel.

 

I have twice lost a front wheel. The first time was when one of the early wheels (1959 - 1960) sheared off at about 60 mph on a country road. I had to stop & fit the spare. The second was on my 'S' on a special stage of a rally in Belgium at about 80 mph when the wheel nuts came loose due to new paint on the inside face of my new Minilites cracking from the brake heat. That was quite noisy as the bottom joint ran along ther tarmac road and destroyed the lower ball joint. All quite interesting really  .

 

very interesting indeed are you positive it's the minilite type nuts*? if not, how do i go about finding the right nuts?

 

edit: *(minilite sleeved nuts)

 

 

I'm not positive as the photo is not clear.

If the diameter of the holes in the wheels are around 1/4" bigger than  the stud diameter then you need the sleeved wheel nuts, as are fitted to original and accurate copies of the Minilite.

Personally I would change all the studs for new ones of the correct length, then fit all new wheel nuts after checking to see which type you need. Safety is vital here.

[jaydee]

Once you canged the studs (all of them) dont use an impact wrench, use a torque wrench to the proper setting instead.

[CharlesK]

 

 

They look like they need the Minilite-type wheel nuts with a sleeved portion to align the wheel.

 

I have twice lost a front wheel. The first time was when one of the early wheels (1959 - 1960) sheared off at about 60 mph on a country road. I had to stop & fit the spare. The second was on my 'S' on a special stage of a rally in Belgium at about 80 mph when the wheel nuts came loose due to new paint on the inside face of my new Minilites cracking from the brake heat. That was quite noisy as the bottom joint ran along ther tarmac road and destroyed the lower ball joint. All quite interesting really  .

 

very interesting indeed are you positive it's the minilite type nuts*? if not, how do i go about finding the right nuts?

 

edit: *(minilite sleeved nuts)

 

 

I'm not positive as the photo is not clear.

If the diameter of the holes in the wheels are around 1/4" bigger than  the stud diameter then you need the sleeved wheel nuts, as are fitted to original and accurate copies of the Minilite.

Personally I would change all the studs for new ones of the correct length, then fit all new wheel nuts after checking to see which type you need. Safety is vital here.

 

 

 

is that 1/4 on each side of the stud or 1/4 total so 1/8th gap all round?

I'll measure it and report back.

[Cooperman]

The diameter of the hole would be approximately 1/4" larger than the diameter of the stud.

[CharlesK]

The diameter of the hole would be approximately 1/4" larger than the diameter of the stud.

 

I finally got around to measuring the stud and wheel hole.

Wheel hole is ~14mm

wheel stud is  ~ 8mm

[Ivor Badger]

 

The diameter of the hole would be approximately 1/4" larger than the diameter of the stud.

 

I finally got around to measuring the stud and wheel hole.

Wheel hole is ~14mm

wheel stud is  ~ 8mm

 

 

 

Wheel stud 8mm = 5/16"?   Std mini stud is 3/8" unf ! 14mm = 9/16" as near as makes little difference.

[CharlesK]

 

 

The diameter of the hole would be approximately 1/4" larger than the diameter of the stud.

 

I finally got around to measuring the stud and wheel hole.

Wheel hole is ~14mm

wheel stud is  ~ 8mm

 

 

 

Wheel stud 8mm = 5/16"?   Std mini stud is 3/8" unf ! 14mm = 9/16" as near as makes little difference.

 

 

Yeah thanks, my calipers are in mm that's why i posted mm

 

That does come down to 1/4 inch tho so that means i need sleeved nuts?

Edited by CharlesK, 12 February 2015 - 02:27 PM.