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Air Filter No Longer Fits


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#1 Beard16

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 09:18 PM

I'm in a bit of a stump as i recently put a stage one exhaust on my mini and now the carb sits incredibly close to the bulk head and i cant fit any filters on at all i have tried a pancake and no good the original one doesn't have a chance but not to keen on the k and n filters or is this my only choice?



#2 rally1380

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 10:30 PM

Right - the exhaust is not causing the problem, it is more than likely the inlet manifold that is.

 

What inlet manifold have you used?

 

Are there any spacers between the manifold and the carb body? These can be different thicknesses so you could swap a thicker one for a thinner to gain back some bulkhead clearance.

 

Also, I think you'll get the best performance by sticking with the original airbox and using a round K&N filter rather than a cone or pancake. If you can get some clearance then stick with the plastic housing.

 

Hope this helps you start to solve the issue.



#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 11:41 PM

The MG Metro Inlet Manifold is slightly shorter and a good choice and mentioned in Vizards Book and i run one on mine with a HIF44 and Cone Filter with no clearance issues



#4 AVV IT

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 12:05 AM

As above, I take it you've fitted an aftermarket manifold & inlet too, as a change of exhaust on it's own really shouldn't alter the position of the carb. If so, you could try a different inlet as the design of them does vary slightly. I've got the minispares version on one of my minis and that leaves plenty of room for a standard air filter box/housing. On my other mini I've got the MG metro inlet though and that leaves much less clearance between the carb and the scuttle, none of the mini air filter boxes will fit, but you can just get an MG metro housing in there with a bit of purisuasion, as it's not quite as deep. You have to cut the inlet duct off though as it feeds from the passenger side of the engine bay in the MG metro item, as opposed to the drivers side.

#5 Dusky

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 06:58 AM

Adjust the engine steady by making 2 little brakets with holes bored 30mm from eachother. Use these brackets at the engine steady to bulkhead mounting point, Job done.

#6 freaker

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 09:21 AM

Even then, it should normally fit without making anu adjustment, like dusky says.

Can you get us a pic ? It says more then a thousand words.

Freaker

#7 Beard16

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 04:01 PM

IMG_3144_zpsc39433fd.jpg

 

IMG_3143_zpsd1b53724.jpg

 

here is what I'm currently working with. original spacer and a British car centre manifold



#8 ukcooper

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 04:42 PM

Buy one of these then adjust it so your engine comes away from the bulk head..

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a4b33fa56



#9 Dusky

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 05:16 PM

Buy one of these then adjust it so your engine comes away from the bulk head..
 
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a4b33fa56

Does this one go to 18cm? Last time i asked them of was only 15( wich is same as original..)

#10 wile e coyote

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:05 PM

you could shove the engine forward with an adjustable bar - but..... that'll put the engine mounts and existing tie bars under additional stress - .reducing their effectiveness / life (and possibly increasing transmitted engine noise) . better option is to get a manifold that fits properly.....the mg metro one already mentioned is great and can still be had on fleabay...



#11 KernowCooper

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 12:49 AM

Is yours a 998 or 1275? the block height is 3/8" taller on a 1275 so lifts the jet by that amount and away from the bulkhead






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