8 replies to this topic

[leelee2]

is it possible to convert my sub frames from wet to dry my project mk2 has hydro but one side has dropped and been told its better in the long run to go dry. do I need to get dry frames or can I use mine.?. whats needed? thanks..

[Cooperman]

To convert the front you need to remove the hydro unit. Then look up into the inside of the sub-frame tower. You will se 3 small locating lugs in each tower. These must be either knocked back or ground away to enable the new dry rubber cone springs to sit properly.

 

The top arms need to be changed because there is no damper pin in the 'wet' arms and the geometry is slightly different. Fit new bump stops.

 

On the rear the 'wet' units can simply be changed for 'dry', but the radius arms need to be changed for 'dry ones' to get the damper pins.

 

Fit new knuckle joints front & rear. You presumably know that new trumpets will be needed at both ends and dampers will also be required.

[Dr s]

It is possible, personally I wouldn't change it. Hydro units are still fairly available with a bit of hunting. It's a fairly simple system, I suspeect you have a leak. Have a Google for oil gun hydro pumps and give it a try.

[leelee2]

Cheers cooperman. Will do that just wasn't sure.
And cheers Dr S would rather go with the dry setup.

[mab01uk]

Refurbished Hydrolastic Units are usually available from Minimail, retain the system if you can as it is much rarer and unique these days.

www.minimail.co.uk

 

If you must convert full details are here:-

 

Suspension - Converting from wet to dry

https://www.calverst...rom-wet-to-dry/

 

Also from Calver article above:-

Bringing up the rear.

Again, as with the front, the hydro rear ‘frame can be modded to take the rubber springs. Same mods, but very, very much easier. However I don’t advise this unless the Min’s used solely for normal road use, carrying two people in the front, minimal luggage, and totally standard wheels/tyres and standard ride height only. Why? because that curious metal cone shape on the dry type acts as a variable spring platform - progressively increasing the spring rate as more load is applied. Carrying more load than the minimal amount mentioned above will have the tyres bashing the wheel arches. Trust me in this, that’s all the explanation you’re going to get, as it’s a bit complicated (not enough room here for full dissertation).

Edited by mab01uk, 14 August 2024 - 12:47 PM.

[Dr s]

If you are dead set on change why not sell the more valuable hydro frames?

[leelee2]

_{i'll see what happens I'm a few weeks away from sorting the subframes. cheers.}

[sonikk4]

I have just converted a brand new wet subframe to dry. All i did was remove the old bits from my dry subbie and welded them into the wet subframe. And a couple of tweaks to the doughnut support rim

 

Old subbie with cup removed

 

new subbie before fitting cup

 

and cup fitted

 

I only did this as my mate thought this subbie was a dry one but not when i checked the part number out. I did get it cheap so not complaining and its a Heritage frame 

[Daz1968]

I did just the opposite and converted a rear dry subframe to wet, again just swapped the mounts for unit from my old one to the new dry one. I wouldn't change a wet car to dry as it's a pretty good system and much better for originality and value of the car.