10 replies to this topic

[gordonola]

Hello all, First time I couldn't find my answer in a previous forum, so I need some help!

 

I have a 1976 Mini Clubman. She has a 998 with a 1275 head, stage 1 kit hooked to a two-barrel weber carb. I have a 276 cam installed and few other goodies. The engine started a month ago, we took her around the block a few times and everything went well. When I got back to her last week and started her up, she sounded a little rougher, but ran. I went to back her out of the driveway and she died. Not a stall with the jerking motion or anything, just... stopped running. A few more tries, same thing until she stopped starting all together. Did some tinkering, spark plugs were pretty black, but smelled of petrol and not oil. Replaced the plugs, she started right back up, but still just quits on me when I try to move her. 

 

She also has performance wires and a flamethrower coil. I had set the spacing to .035 previously, but it was recommended to open the gap on the plugs. Someone has also told me that i may be running too rich, but that doesn't explain why she only quits when being put in gear. 

 

Any help, would be great! thanks!

[nicklouse]

Done a compression test?

Block been pocketed?

[The Principal]

could be over fuelling which soots the plugs usually made worse by short duration engine runs. Have you adjusted the clutch correctly?

Edited by The Principal, 11 March 2015 - 10:26 AM.

[gordonola]

Done a compression test?

Block been pocketed?

 

Haven't done a compression test since it's been put back together and the block and the head were done by a local mechanic familiar with minis. We had the head skimmed by the machinist, don't remember any mention about pocketing the block specifically... Though is it needed if you work the head side?

[crackfoo]

I'd check into your timing before anything else. Do you get any run-on or anything when you turn off the ign?

[nicklouse]

 

Done a compression test?

Block been pocketed?

 

Haven't done a compression test since it's been put back together and the block and the head were done by a local mechanic familiar with minis. We had the head skimmed by the machinist, don't remember any mention about pocketing the block specifically... Though is it needed if you work the head side?

 

well as the 1275 head is for a bigger bore engine than the 998 often the block requires some modification to allow for valve clearance.

if this has not been done you might find you have a nice set of bent valves. hence Compression test.

[gordonola]

The head was shaved down to reduce the chance. Still leaving it as a possibility that the compression is off, but judging by the fuel i pulled from the gas tank and the sludge that settled at the bottom, I'm thinking it's from the tank and rust issues within the tank. Hope this works.

[nicklouse]

The head was shaved down to reduce the chance. Still leaving it as a possibility that the compression is off, but judging by the fuel i pulled from the gas tank and the sludge that settled at the bottom, I'm thinking it's from the tank and rust issues within the tank. Hope this works.

shimming the head will not reduce the chance of the valve hitting the block it will only increase the chance.

 

have you done a compression test yet?

[cal844]

The block needs pocketing for a 1275 head to be fitted 

[Dusky]

How is your weber jetted?

If it's a dcoe try moving her with the jet blanking plate ( on top of the weber with the wingnut) removed.

[psychobob]

this might be a stupid idea but, as you say it dies when you put it in reverse, could it be the reversing light switch (if it has one) shorting something out? if it is just cutting out instantly, it sounds like it might be electrical?