14 replies to this topic

[minivanman8]

I just replaced front wheel bearings on the mini (standard 97 mpi) as the previous ones were stiff (wheel turns when jacked up, but won't free wheel for any more than a quarter turn)

New ones are now wacky the same. They're the non genuine Minispares ones as I couldn't stomach £100 for a pair!

I have the caliper off so know the brakes aren't an issue. If I back the crown but off, the wheel spins nicely so I know it's not a gearbox/diff issue.

Any ideas what the cause is?

[Stu1961]

Hi, their is a process for tightening the hub which requires leaving the tapered washer off and replacing it temporarily with a large flat washer. Initially torque up with the flat washer fitted, then remove the nut and flat washer replace the tapered washer and torque up again. Not sure this is your problem but it maybe worth a try.  

[minivanman8]

Ok, I'd not heard that before. I haven't got a washer big enough now, will have to make something tomorrow.

Is the fact that they're non genuine bearings likely to be a factor?

Also, the spacer that goes between the two races isn't machined down which I believe they're supposed to be to match the bearings?

[Spider]

Assuming that the Bearing Cups are properly seated, sounds to me like the hub itself could be off specification or there is some damage / contamination in the tunnel of the hub.

 

If the tightening process isn't done right, the beaing assembly will end up too loose not too tight. The matched spacer (which some of the non genuine sets don't seem have only a  unmatched spacer) sets the pre-load and 'tightness' of the bearing assembly.

Edited by Moke Spider, 22 March 2015 - 08:19 PM.

[dklawson]

I think that expecting a front wheel to freewheel and spin for more than 1/4 revolution is optimistic.  Remember that even in neutral when you turn one front wheel  you are turning the differential and possibly the other front wheel if both are off the ground.  There is going to be a fair amount of drag.

[minivanman8]

So I'd assume if the spacer is not machined down, the bearings would be tighter than they should be?

I ran the engine on axle stands in gear this evening for about 10 minutes and the wheels were almost too tight to turn by hand after (and the hub was hot)

My van free wheels at least 1.5 turns..,,these are WAY too tight to be normal

[Spider]

So I'd assume if the spacer is not machined down, the bearings would be tighter than they should be?

 

If the spacer is not machined and too thick, then the wheels would be loose and wobble.

 

Just one other thing to check, when you jack the car up and try to turn the wheel and it's stiff, just check that it's not from the drive shaft rubbing on the wiggle suspension bolt (for the Lower Arm on the inner end) or the subframe.

 

If that's clear, then sounds like somethings up with the hub.

[Stu1961]

I replaced the discs on mine (71/2") they were very slightly rubbing on the hubs 10 minutes with a file on each hub cured the issue.

[jaydee]

Seen this on cheap bearings that turned out to have a wrong spacer, to avoid this you should have turned the hub during the tightening process so if it starts to get too tight you stop, and swap the spacer (if you have some other old bearings spacers) or try shimming them accordingily. 

But if you fully torque them down too stiff bearings chances are the bearings are already damaged and wont last long 

Ah and if you do a dry built to check the correct shimming, bearings should have a 3 thou endfloat once torqued.

Edited by jaydee, 23 March 2015 - 04:21 PM.

[PandO]

Hi guys - I too have an issue with one front wheel bearing. I have free play when all is torqued up, 2 new bearings and lastly a new hub and taper washer and with the catle nut tight I still have play. Do I need to remove some thickness to the spacer? Any advice welcome. Could it be a pot joint or drive shaft issue - or is it confined to the bearing?

[firstforward]

Did you tighten it up first with the flat washer, loosen off and then with the tapered washer. If it is done only with the tapered washer it can clamp up on the CV splines, it will reach the required torque, trouble is it will then over time loosen off and become loose.

 

Always best to start a new thread, it can get confusing.......

Edited by firstforward, 19 May 2015 - 11:07 AM.

[PandO]

I'll try the flat washer method - thanks for the tip. I won't be able to until later this week but I'll feedback how I get on.

[Spider]

Just reading this again, try jacking with a second jack, under the lower arm to check for free rotation, the drive shaft could be rubbing on the subframe when jacked up by the subframe and the wheel 'dangling'.

Edited by Moke Spider, 19 May 2015 - 09:24 AM.

[Cooperman]

Do you still have the original spacer, or is that what you are using? It sounds as though the spacer is too narrow. It doesn't need to be far out to cause bearing binding.

If the spacer is too 'thin' it is possible to add a shim to make it correct, but first of all check what you have and be sure the outer bearing races are fully 'home' in the hub.

[PandO]

Sorted mine now - it was the CV joint. A new one fitted cured my wobble. Off of the car it was difficult to see or feel any wear in the joint.