3 replies to this topic

[Black.Ghost]

My sister has a Pug 206 and it is making a fairly loud knocking noise. My mum used to drive taxis and said the noise is the same as what used to happen to them (and that was always a CV joint). I have not been able to listen to it at all as it has run out of tax (plus I was smartly dressed when there so didn't want to go climbing around it either). I will be back down there in a couple of weeks, so I said I would have a proper look at it.

 

Is there anything it is likely to be? I know this isn't much to go on to be honest, but if we can identify the problem before I get there it makes it a bit easier. It needs a service really as well so I said I will do it all for her. There is no point her selling the car as she would get hardly anything for it, and certainly not enough to buy a new one. The problem she has is she buys one cheap car, it develops a problem, sits outside for ages and then develops more problems and she sells it to the local scrap man. She can't keep repeating that process so it needs fixing. I think I will tell her to tax the car, take for a lap round the block with my brother in the car and get him to record the noise and see if he can identify whereabouts it is coming from. I don't even know what side it is!!

 

Is the CV joint on a Pug a difficult job? I'll see if she has a Haynes manual. The drive that it is parked on is at an angle, so I don't really want to do the work on that but if I can't finish it, I don't want to leave it on the road either!

[Deathrow]

If the frequency of the knocking goes up and down with road speed and is louder when cornering (even more so if accelerating) then you can be pretty certain it's the CV joint. I ran my 106 with them on the way out for a little bit, they get very loud indeed if you ignore them!

If the 206 is anything like the 106, the CV joints aren't worth replacing on their own, get a refurbished drive shaft and swap the whole unit out. Do both at once as well. I made the mistake of just doing the noisy one and was repeating the procedure a month later for the other side.

You'll need to drain the gearbox oil as well I'd imagine. The inner joint seals the gearbox so when you withdraw it the oil escapes. Even after you've drained it, put something underneath before withdrawing the driveshaft as there'll still be some fluid in there and it stains driveways and it smells awful.

I also did this on a drive that wasn't flat. When I finished i put in the recommended amount of oil, took it down the hill on to the flat and opened the filler/level check plug and let it dribble out until the level was correct, nipped up and all good!

[Black.Ghost]

How much should I (or rather she) be expecting to pay for a re-con driveshaft? I have had a look on eBay but the results you get vary greatly. There are some that say new for £29 and some are refurbished for £90 odd. Being sceptical, I believe the new ones for £29 each probably aren't the best to be getting, whereas I can't help but feel that £90 each side is a bit much!

[Deathrow]

I want to say mine were around £60 each? They were on an exchange basis so they were £80 or so and then you got £20 back when you returned the old shaft. I do think I recall it costing me about £130-150 to do both sides.

Yeah I would steer clear of the £29 ones. Just pop to your local motor factors. I used EK Brakes but they only have a few locations up north unfortunately.

It's important you make sure you get the right one for your year of car. On the 106 at least, earlier cars had a flat surface on the CV to mate to the wheel bearing inner race, later cars had a tapered surface. Obviously you absolutely don't want to mix these! However you'll have to look up what it's like on the 206. I think on the 106 you could tell based on the number of studs per wheel (3 being flat, 4 being tapered).

I'm probably not filling you with confidence! If there's any possibility of ordering the shafts in to your motor factors and then getting the old shafts (or at least one) before going to collect the new ones and then just compare them on the desk while you're there. Pay attention to the bearing surfaces on the outer CV, the depth of the driveshaft nut and whether there is an ABS sensor ring on each.