9 replies to this topic

[bill132hotrod]

Hi guys

As per title How are you guys getting the top suspension arm roller bearing out, in order to fit new ones .

Without a proper tool??????????????????????????????

Answers on a postcard.

Cheers guys.

[Dr s]

Weld a nut in. Podge it out with an FBH. 

[nicklouse]

Just drift it out no special tools needed especially a welder !

Have a read.

Well today was a day of sorting out a few little things. One thing that I have seen is people struggling with top arm bearing replacement with some really odd suggestions including welding bit to the bearing. I guess this is because people have not cleaned out the old grease first. There is loads of room to get a drift behind the inner face and knock them out.
I use a slightly shaped drift.
Finished off the front subframe. Of to the blasters next week.

[Dr s]

Sometimes they'll drift out, sometimes they have been in so long they need help! I reckon he's had a good go so far. 

 

I reckon it depends who fitted them. The last lot I did had been knocked in past flush with the end until they bottomed in the arm. This leaves very little to get purchase on with the punch. I dremelled one out, very messy. Then stuck an M10 in it and a blast of weld. That had the others out in a couple of minutes.

 

Nick

[nicklouse]

If they have gone past the end to bottom out they will be a long way in. If they got past the grease nipple.

Never ever had an issue where they have not knocked out.

[Dr s]

Indeed they can be, I've always used a drift, but having given them a tickle with the welder its just really easy. Knock in the nut, weld round. Punch out.

[alex-95]

If you can't get much purchase on them you can take out the rollers and bearing cage and use the lip on the bearing shell.

[bill132hotrod]

Wicked cheers guys
I have built my engine now and started on the comple front subframe and suspension rebuild all into a new subframe, this is all because everything I have taken apart so far has been an absolute bodge up who ever owned this mini before me should be put on a block and cut his hands off so he cannot build anymore dangerous vehicles who ever he is he is dam right dangerous.
They say little know age is dangerous well this takes the biscuit.
There has been numerous wrong bolts fitted everywhere locking nuts loose std bottom arm on one side and a adjusterble bottom arm on the other polly bushes one and not the other bottom arm cross pins welded in bodged welded subframe at front shock absorbers wrongly fitted and out of line no spacer, odd nuts on ball joints and that's just what I found when stripping it down. 😡😡😡😡
There are hi- lows fitted also and none of it assembled with any lube at all so everything showing signs of corrosion.
So when I finally get it all back together I will know it all new and correctly put together.

Edited by bill132hotrod, 30 March 2015 - 06:39 PM.

[AlexMozza]

Wicked cheers guys
I have built my engine now and started on the comple front subframe and suspension rebuild all into a new subframe, this is all because everything I have taken apart so far has been an absolute bodge up who ever owned this mini before me should be put on a block and cut his hands off so he cannot build anymore dangerous vehicles who ever he is he is dam right dangerous.
They say little know age is dangerous well this takes the biscuit.
There has been numerous wrong bolts fitted everywhere locking nuts loose std bottom arm on one side and a adjusterble bottom arm on the other polly bushes one and not the other bottom arm cross pins welded in bodged welded subframe at front shock absorbers wrongly fitted and out of line no spacer, odd nuts on ball joints and that's just what I found when stripping it down.
There are hi- lows fitted also and none of it assembled with any lube at all so everything showing signs of corrosion.
So when I finally get it all back together I will know it all new and correctly put together.

 

 

I hear ISIS are good at that...

 

I use the proper tool, takes about 5 seconds to remove each one, then tap in a new one with a nylon mallet.

Failing that a Drift will do the trick!

[Spider]

If you use a drift, use a soft one, you don't want to damage the tunnel in the arm.

 

I've also done it (years ago before buying the tool, which isn't expensive) by picking the needles out of the old bearing, then using a dremal to grind a slot almost all the way through the wall of the shell, then drive a small screw driver between the shell and the tunnel and then they just fall out.