9 replies to this topic

[miniyellowmini]

I'm looking to upgrade my coil for a new one, hopefully to cure starting problems. I've changed everything else and it's all setup correctly.

 

Don't know if I have a ballast/non ballast coil. Current coil is a Lucas 16c6 which I think from looking online is a 6v coil? Not even sure that is right for a Mini as keep reading 12v coils are standard. Is this correct?

 

Checked the wires pink/white yellow/white but couldn't see any and looks like wiring has been chopped/changed over the years. So instead I tested it by putting one end of a jumper wire on the coil (-) and other to ground. Then I'm getting roughly 12v on the coil (+) which I think I'm right in saying points towards a non ballast coil, but measuring the Ohms it's jumping all over the place but I'm roughly getting a reading less than 1. Nowhere near the 3 expected.

 

What I want to know is, Is my current coil correct?

Any other tests I can do to determine what coil I need?

 

 

Any advise would be appreciated. I've got accuspark electronic ignition fitted and don't want to fry it with the wrong coil. It's a 1984 which seems to be the year ballast/non ballast changed over which makes it even more confusing

 

Pics attached

 

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[dklawson]

You have done an excellent job of checking what you have and describing what you have done.

 

Your test of providing an earth to coil (-) with the ignition on and measuring voltage between coil (+) and earth is perfect.  Since you found 12V on coil (+) with coil (-) earthed, that says your car's wiring is set up for a 12V (nominal 3 Ohm) standard ignition coil.  

 

You said you tried measuring the coil resistance and it was jumping all over the place.  If you left the low tension wires on the coil, other components in the ignition system can affect the readings.  Mark and disconnect the low tension wires from the coil then repeat your resistance measurement.  Resistance ranges are nominal at best.  A ballast coil will typically measure 1-2 Ohms, a standard coil will measure 3-4 Ohms.  Your 12V measurement says that you need a standard coil.

 

I cannot tell a lot from your pictures but I do have questions about them.  The first image shows two white/black wires on a coil terminal.  It also shows a red wire and a black wire on the other terminal.  You said you have an Accuspark ignition.  One white/black wire will go to the tach (if fitted).  The white/black tach wire should go to coil (-).  The red wire from the Accuspark should go to coil (+) and its black wire to coil (-).  The remaining white/black wire would have gone between coil (-) and the points in your distributor before fitting the Accuspark.  You can leave the old white/black attached to the coil, but make sure its other end is taped off so it cannot touch anything else. 

[miniyellowmini]

Thanks for your help Doug. Yes, I left the other wires connected to the coil. As you suggested I removed them and get a steady reading of 1.9 sometimes 2.0 which I think you said is a ballast coil? Looks like I have the wrong coil then by the sounds of it. Would that explain why I kept having condensers failing before moving over to the Accuspark?

 

Overall it has been ok since having the Accuspark fitted but does sometimes take a while to start if it's been standing a few days. 

 

I cannot tell a lot from your pictures but I do have questions about them.  The first image shows two white/black wires on a coil terminal.  It also shows a red wire and a black wire on the other terminal.  You said you have an Accuspark ignition.  One white/black wire will go to the tach (if fitted).  The white/black tach wire should go to coil (-).  The red wire from the Accuspark should go to coil (+) and its black wire to coil (-).  The remaining white/black wire would have gone between coil (-) and the points in your distributor before fitting the Accuspark.  You can leave the old white/black attached to the coil, but make sure its other end is taped off so it cannot touch anything else. 

 

Yes everything is wired up as you said, apart from the last white/black wire that would have gone between coil (-) and the points. This wire seems to go off up into the loom?

[dklawson]

One white/black will be a short loop that would have gone between coil (-) and the dizzy.  The other one that disappears into the loom would go to the tachometer.

 

Yes, running a 1-2 Ohm coil without a ballast resistor (white/pink wire) will allow too much current to flow through the ignition system and that will cause damage to the points, condenser, and the coil.  It will also be putting extra stress on the Accuspark module.  I would get a 3 Ohm coil as I am sure their instructions suggest.

 

When you installed the Accuspark module did you re-time the ignition?  If not, you need to.  The point of firing of the ignition module will not exactly match that of the points.  Though the engine may start, the timing is likely to be off by a few degrees.  While the hard starting you report may be due to timing, it could also be from fuel evaporating from the float bowls requiring the engine to crank a bit longer to refill the carb.

[miniyellowmini]

I installed a 3.0 Ohms Lucas DLB 105 Sports Coil.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Seems to have done the trick and it now starts a lot easier. It had been standing since last weekend and it started after about 3 seconds cranking. Forget now what I set them at but I've left the plug gaps standard (based on Haynes) It does say on the packaging with this coil that the gap can be widened to give a stronger spark. Can you recommend a suitable gap? Can't seem to find anything conclusive looking around. To be honest though if it starts ok then I'm happy to leave as it is.

 

I had the Accuspark installed by a Mini specialist and it was set up on a rolling road, so the timing should be accurate. Saying that they didn't spot that the wrong coil was fitted so who knows. I have a timing light so could always check it to be certain.

[dklawson]

When you combine the electronic ignition and the performance coil you can indeed open the plug gap a bit.  I would start with small steps.  Try .030" and if it feels OK while driving, try .035".  At the first sign of roughness, close the gap a bit.

[KernowCooper]

Sorry to bring this to your atttention, but you need to keep a eye on the Lucas DLB 105 Sports Coil, I had one and after speaking with Minispares and finding out they no longer supply this item due to the high failure rate, I changed mine to the MSC 105 which is made by Intermotor.

 

The post about the Lucas DLB 105 Coils is here http://www.theminifo...coils-all-read/

Edited by KernowCooper, 11 April 2015 - 03:37 PM.

[miniyellowmini]

When you combine the electronic ignition and the performance coil you can indeed open the plug gap a bit.  I would start with small steps.  Try .030" and if it feels OK while driving, try .035".  At the first sign of roughness, close the gap a bit.

Ok, Thanks for the help will try that this weekend.

[miniyellowmini]

Sorry to bring this to your atttention, but you need to keep a eye on the Lucas DLB 105 Sports Coil, I had one and after speaking with Minispares and finding out they no longer supply this item due to the high failure rate, I changed mine to the MSC 105 which is made by Intermotor.

 

The post about the Lucas DLB 105 Coils is here http://www.theminifo...coils-all-read/

Hopefully mine isn't one of the bad batch  Think I might get a MSC 105 as a back up to keep in the boot though just to be on the safe side. Not worth trying to return the Lucas as nothing actually wrong with it as such and it's fitted. I have breakdown cover but would rather fix it by the side of the road if possible/conditions allow and continue on my journey.

[KernowCooper]

I actually removed my DLB 105 and keep that in the boot for a spare and run the MSC 105