Ps I've done a search and not found a conclusive answer to the above. Thanks.
Edited by Richie83, 10 April 2015 - 07:47 PM.
Posted 10 April 2015 - 07:46 PM
Edited by Richie83, 10 April 2015 - 07:47 PM.
Posted 10 April 2015 - 08:06 PM
It's just about possible to do the rears with the car on the floor and wheels still on, the drivers side is tricky due to battery box (not even sure if that one is actually possible), but front ones need the wheels off to get at the hilo.
I use a spanner and a pair of pipe grips (as I don't have the right size spanner for one of the bits, ).
Measure some amount of the thread on the hilo to know when you've wound it out enough.
Measure you're current floor to arch gap (or some other reference point) and decide how much you want to increase the height by.
For the front, divide this amount by 3 and increase the hilo by this amount. (for every mm on the hilo, ride height will go up by 3mm)
For the rear, divide this amount by 5 and increase the hilo by this amount. (for every mm on hilo, ride height will go up by 5mm)
Posted 10 April 2015 - 08:44 PM
It's just about possible to do the rears with the car on the floor and wheels still on, the drivers side is tricky due to battery box (not even sure if that one is actually possible), but front ones need the wheels off to get at the hilo.
I use a spanner and a pair of pipe grips (as I don't have the right size spanner for one of the bits,
).
Measure some amount of the thread on the hilo to know when you've wound it out enough.
Measure you're current floor to arch gap (or some other reference point) and decide how much you want to increase the height by.
For the front, divide this amount by 3 and increase the hilo by this amount. (for every mm on the hilo, ride height will go up by 3mm)
For the rear, divide this amount by 5 and increase the hilo by this amount. (for every mm on hilo, ride height will go up by 5mm)
Yeap, great advice.
Only thing I'll say is I've actually measure the front ratio and it's 4.5:1. I think that number - 3:1 - came from Vizard's early book and well, it's wrong.
Posted 10 April 2015 - 09:25 PM
Posted 10 April 2015 - 09:46 PM
What! Vizard wrong? You could get barred for making statements like that on this forum.
Bhahahaaha,,,,, just shows, none of us are infallible!
Posted 10 April 2015 - 09:57 PM
Posted 10 April 2015 - 09:59 PM
I know what happened, they changed the ratio after he measured it. That must be it.
Ah, of course - it is an old book!
Posted 10 April 2015 - 10:03 PM
Posted 11 April 2015 - 06:45 AM
Posted 11 April 2015 - 08:09 AM
No doubt it's a Whitworth ratio.
In that case it would work in reverse!
Posted 11 April 2015 - 02:12 PM
Posted 11 April 2015 - 08:10 PM
I think I know which Hilos you have, they have a smaller lock nut.
It'll be the bigger headed one. In the fronts, if you move the spanner from right to left, it will increase the height. Be sure to lock off the lock nut against the Hilo body. Doesn't need to be super tight, just nipped up will be fine.
In the rears, on the LH side, it'll be from top to bottom and on the RH side from bottom to top. Basically what you are doing is making the exposed part of the bolt longer.
Posted 11 April 2015 - 09:01 PM
Posted 12 April 2015 - 06:57 AM
Posted 12 April 2015 - 07:54 AM
I actually found the same strangely. Might be because my front wings are cut for larger wheels. I took the offside one off but realised quickly this wasn't needed, so after the obligatory jack up and lower to test I didn't remove the wheel the second time to adjust on the front.I've found the opposite on my car. I can adjust the front just fine with the wheels on and on full lock (jacked up slightly)The rear there's no chance on the battery box side without taking the wheel off and the other side is blocked by my side exit maniflow so the wheel has to come off there too.
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