
Spi Dizzy
#1
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:15 PM
Its just the haynes manual talks about it being completely electronic and not needing one, I have one fitted and have a intermittant problem with the engine not pulling under load !
Thanks
#2
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:26 PM
I'd say you should try other places for pulling under load problems - dizzy cap or ht leads or a new air filter might help you out there.
#3
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:28 PM
#4
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:38 PM
Also sometimes you notice a hesitantion when putting the car unload in 3rd.
Ive checked as much of the injection system I can, Im now thinking its a ignition problem!
#5
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:44 PM
the most common is the line from the fuel trap on the bulkhead to the ecu, take it off and give it a blow through. if any fuel comes out that should cure most of your problems.
Also inspect all the vaccum lines for holes and splits. and make sure the rubber unions are in good nik
#6
Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:58 PM
Starting to run out of ideas now
Any help apreciated
#7
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:05 PM
unless youve laid in new wires? but surly youd buy new sensors?
#8
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:08 PM
#9
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:12 PM
have you tried removing the condensor?
#10
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:15 PM
I m going to chang the coil and cap plus leads just to rule them all out
#11
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:16 PM

Have a listen round in the engine bay for sucking/whistling noises, this might help you narrow down the source of the leak (if there is one).
Have you had the fuel injection system checked by a specialist? If any of the sensors are reading out of their parameters (which could cause fuelling issues) then this test will determine which ones and allow you to take action to repair the fault, although this of course will not conforim whether you have a vacuum leak.
#12
Posted 20 July 2006 - 09:19 PM
#13
Posted 20 July 2006 - 10:55 PM
Id suspect the coil at some point has been replaced? The injection one is specific. Make sure you are running the correct plugs NGK BPR6ES and a decent set of leads, check the dizy cap and rotor arm for condition while your at it.
What colour are the plugs at the business end after a long run?
You realy need to get the sensors checked properly.
Have you tried resetting the ECU, again this is a bit hit and miss but some recon it can be done by powering down the ecu over night? Im not convinced that works as mine was powered down for 13 weeks and notebly changed when i reset it with the service tool.
Are we sure its an ignition fault and not fueling, when was the fuel filter changed.
Does it misfire at idle or a constand burble with a VERY slight hint of a note change regularly?
Oh and an air leak on the manifold will cause the ecu to adapt and depending if its severe the idle will also rise. Only leaks on the vac lines affect the way the engine runs as the ECU does not see the actual pressure that is pressent, where as a leak on the manifold without any leak on the vac lines, the engine should still run fine, to a degree.
Oh and Bounce should know (mind you he had been drinking quite a bit), there is a possability that the wrong ends have been used on the vac lines, this alows them to be pushed too far onto the port resulting in it being blocked off, not good.
Id also suspect that the stepper needs tuning.
#14
Posted 22 July 2006 - 06:27 AM
Ive order all the ignition parts just to rule those out, the coil has been replaced and does not look to be the correct one! Plus it has a condensor fitted to it!
There no misfire at idle it hunts a bit and seems to get stuck sometimes at 2k when you are driving. Also plugs are correct colour as to haynes manual
I think I have a few faults on this car, im going to check the stepper motor as when you turn the ignition off you hear it make a noise but it does not seem to move. Should it be noticable the amount it moves?
Anyone know a good place in surrey to sheck the sensors for me?
#15
Posted 22 July 2006 - 10:08 AM
What wire did you use to re-wire the oxygen sensor? I believe it needs to be the correct shielded cable in order for the correct signals to reach the ECU.
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