20 replies to this topic

[Reece_Mini]

Hello all,

 

I have loved the classic Mini since I was a kid, I am looking to get a daily (diesel) and a Mini as a project. Currently driving a MK5 Golf R32, love it to bits but the running costs are crippling somewhat so looking for a change...

 

I know the Mini is at the other end of the scale, even more so as I only have an Auto licence (at the mo!) I plan to get an Auto Mini, restore it, then when I have my manual licence, do an engine swap as the body and interior would be taken care of in the mean time.

 

My question really, is it possible to i.e. upgrade the brakes and other bits and then when I am ready put a manual engine in and tune it from there, i.e. forced induction etc... Sorry if this is a laughable Q but I am new to anything Mini! I had a little search, but does anyone know the rough cost of doing the engine swap from Auto to Manual?

 

 

thanks v much for your help in advance!

 

Reece

Edited by Reece_Mini, 13 April 2015 - 01:56 PM.

[sonikk4]

Hi and welcome to TMF. And to answer your question yes it is possible to upgrade the braking system etc on a auto ready for a conversion to manual.

There will be a few things needed to convert from auto to manual, engine, pedal box and of course the subframe. Subbies are cheap, 998's are cheap to buy as well but 1275 not so. Obviously you will be rebuilding whatever you buy so condition does not play such a huge part but getting a standard bore 1275 would be the way to go. This will give you plenty of options then to increase cc size.

[Reece_Mini]

Ok thanks very much for the quick reply!

 

I am looking at getting something circa 4-5k, does it matter if it is an Austin or a Rover Mini, as in are most of the parts the same/easier to source/buy and interchangeable between different models? I am just fed up of the lack of tenability of the R... Seems there are endless things that can be done to a Mini.

Edited by Reece_Mini, 13 April 2015 - 02:21 PM.

[sonikk4]

4 to 5k should get you a very solid car. Austin minis are the earlier cars whereas Rover are later model cars. The biggest issue with the later cars circa mid 90's is rust. Don't get me wrong the earlier cars rust as well but towards the end of production the SPI and MPI cars seem to suffer badly.

[Reece_Mini]

Thanks for your advice. One more quick Q, with an auto, 1.3 for example can you still tune it to be a decent performer? Anyone on here have turned autos

[sonikk4]

Mmm any engine is tunable but the gearbox is the weak link. The best man to answer that question on here will be Guessworks our resident gearbox expert. 

[Reece_Mini]

Sonikk4 thanks very much for your help you have been great!

[sonikk4]

No problem,  

[mk1leg]

Hi..and welcome to TMF and enjoy................................

[72clubman]

Hi and welcome.

Don't scare me with your running costs! I recently went the opposite way to you and gave up my mini for an a3 (3.2 so identical to an r32) I have already had to have my haldex controller repaired though, and the fuel consumption is worse than the mini...


Joe

[Reece_Mini]

Hey Joe,

They're very solid engines, hindsight is a wonderful thing, until I tallied up my petrol receipts this month, it's only really a weekend car, covered about 650 miles a month and I was averaging 18mpg if that... My thoughts are if I spend the amount I do on my R, let alone the 1.5k already spend modifying it, a mini would only appreciate... Ouch, Haldex controllers aren't cheap...

How do you find the 3.2 lump in comparison to the mini? Totally different animals but do you have any regrets?

[72clubman]

The fuel bills are certainly hefty, I'm managing around 28mpg per tank, and yes the haldex unit was rather scary! Luckily I found a company to repair it for a lot less than a replacement. 

 

 

 

My 1275 GT is worlds apart from the 3.2. It was very much a running repair car which is why I think people enjoyed my thread on it. (it's in my sig if you want to bore yourself)  I was using the mini everyday and doing a lot of miles so it took a fair amount of abuse and such a lot of work. They make much more sense as a weekend play thing to tinker with.

The audi is much happier doing a long slog abet with a drinking problem.

 

At the moment I'm loving the refinement and the speed, but I do miss a few things.

The attention the mini got was always brilliant, its all smiles rather than thinking you're a bit of a *******. The size was also perfect for country roads and city centres, you can throw a mini around like no other car I've driven. The audi isn't a massive car, but feels it in comparison. I live in constant fear of catching a curb.

I also had a cracking exhaust on the mini (2" single box maniflow) so it sounded amazing, and although the 3.2's make one of the best noises it is a tad muted, but I don't dare mess with it incase i ruin it with a crappy droning exhaust! 

What out of interest did you do to your R?

 

 

Joe

[Reece_Mini]

I can imagine! I might grab a manual Mini and just store it on the drive while I restore it... in a nutshell which Mini engines are best for potential power gains?

 

The R is fantastic and has arguably one of the best exhaust notes around. As I'm sure the Audi does too! That and the constant power is what I will miss the most, but I fancy a project, as there isn't much you can do with the R, unless you want to throw 15k at it for a turbo...

 

I have done a fair amount, stage 1 remap, OEM rear lights, RNS510 radio, exhaust tips, All LED lights, panel filter etc... check out my build thread. I checked your one out and what a cracking motor!

 

http://www.r32oc.com...913-my-mk5-r32/

[sonikk4]

The 1275 will give you the most bang for your bucks. Obviously going forced induction will help with power outputs. Supercharging is limited whereas turbo is sky's the limit.

Normally aspirated is for a full monty no holds barred car very very expensive. Cylinder heads range from 5 port to 8 port. There are 16 valve conversions and so on.

The limiting factor here is budget. BUT the biggest thing is taking care when building a high output car. You do not need to go straight to 1380. ( you can get a higher cc but this is involved) 1380 when the bores are damaged means the engine will need to be linered to save it. Using a standard 1275 gives you plenty of chances for a rebuild and rebore.

I'm doing a 1293 with twin 1" 1/4's modified head 276 cam or equivalent and will be aiming for a solid 75bnp. Hopefully a bit more. I want poke but with driveability and not outright power. My next car though will be a different beastie.

[72clubman]

I can imagine! I might grab a manual Mini and just store it on the drive while I restore it... in a nutshell which Mini engines are best for potential power gains?
 
The R is fantastic and has arguably one of the best exhaust notes around. As I'm sure the Audi does too! That and the constant power is what I will miss the most, but I fancy a project, as there isn't much you can do with the R, unless you want to throw 15k at it for a turbo...
 
I have done a fair amount, stage 1 remap, OEM rear lights, RNS510 radio, exhaust tips, All LED lights, panel filter etc... check out my build thread. I checked your one out and what a cracking motor!
 
http://www.r32oc.com...913-my-mk5-r32/

As far as buying, if your not Fixated on a particular model (had to be a 1275 GT for me) it's all about finding the best and most rust free mini you can. (I favour early 70s minis) Everything else can be changed. I've never had any experience with auto minis so I can't help you there, or with 998cc minis. My 1275 GT was a standard 1275 bottom end with a slightly worked head and bigger 1 3/4 carb and nice lcb Manifold. This as a daily driver was perfect as it was just so torquey. my next project will be an overbored 1275cc engine. Lightened and balanced bottom end, hot cam, a worked cylinder head, and a big pair of twin carbs. This will hopefully keep me amused before I start looking at superchargers again. If you know you will crave more power you'll save yourself hassle and just start with a 1275cc. They're all very similar if you're going to tune, but MG metro blocks are the best starting point. Original cooper S blocks are the most sort after. But good look finding one!


I've only had mine for 4 months and thats exactly what I'm finding. I do miss the tinkering. I already did the RNS-E nav upgrade. Lasted 2 weeks before it was stolen. I really fancied some buckets as well but it would seem they're just as vulnerable! I'm holding my breath that my RS wing mirrors stay on the car. So for now mines staying stock. Although saying that your LED interior lights really look the business.

Joe