20 replies to this topic

[JackF]

I am currently building up new front hubs including ball joints. While dry I have shimmed them using the method described in the Haynes manual. But I don't have a deep enough socket to tighten the main nut, so currently trying to source.
I believe they should be tightened to 75 lb ft. Has anyone got any tips for making sure the ball joints will be ok?

[RooBoonix]

Halfords do a ball joint socket, it's from their professional range so has lifetime guarantee. About £12, I've bought one, and I probably won't use it often but easy to use and makes it easy to get a nice bar on when it comes to removing them.

 

http://www.halfords....int-socket#tab1

 

I used that socket on a torque wrench, worked great.

 

Hope that helps :)

Cam.

[Fast Ivan]

I believe they should be tightened to 75 lb ft. Has anyone got any tips for making sure the ball joints will be ok?

 

1) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

2) make sure you lap the ball joints in

3) shim them so that there is between no nip and .003" end float; they should not be tight

5) torque of 75 you state is correct

6) keep everything spotless

7) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

[Fast Ivan]

oh, almost forgot - use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints 

[JackF]

oh, almost forgot - use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints 

I think I missed the bit about top quality ball joints.....

In all seriousness they are from the minispares 10" conversion kit - I chose the one with Timken bearings and AP calliper but not actually too sure on the ball joints... Time will tell.

 

Thanks for the other pointers though

[carthorse]

Once I'm happy with the shimming I coat the pin seat and the mating surfaces of the pin and cup with a good smear of grease before reassembly and final greasing.
Also even if the hubs are new blow the grease ports out with an air line of run a pipe cleaner through them to make sure there's no swarf or dirt in there waiting to be forced into your nice new joints as soon as you grease them!

[humph]

 

I believe they should be tightened to 75 lb ft. Has anyone got any tips for making sure the ball joints will be ok?

 

1) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

2) make sure you lap the ball joints in

3) shim them so that there is between no nip and .003" end float; they should not be tight

5) torque of 75 you state is correct

6) keep everything spotless

7) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

 

 

I'm not sure I quite follow what is meant in point 3, and it's pretty important. Could it be clarified please? ta.

[Steve220]

Once you've lapped them, covered the inside in grease and assembled, you should just be able to move the joint on top with some force.

[Spider]

The Factory info on this says there should be zero play (looseness) to 0.003" play, ie, they souldn't be tight at all. I also agree with this because if they are 'tight' the grease can't get where it's needed. Also, there is a risk that the joint can undo itself (and I have seen that).

 

The good quality Joints I once used to be able to get didn't need lapping, but seems most these days do.

 

In regards to Torquing them up, the Factory actually specified 70 to 80 ft/lbs and the reason for that was for fine adjustment beyond what can be done with the shims.

[Spider]

Here is some of it;-

 

 

 

I'll dig out the rest of it tomorrow (our time)

[Fast Ivan]

 

 

I believe they should be tightened to 75 lb ft. Has anyone got any tips for making sure the ball joints will be ok?

 

1) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

2) make sure you lap the ball joints in

3) shim them so that there is between no nip and .003" end float; they should not be tight

5) torque of 75 you state is correct

6) keep everything spotless

7) use top quality ball joints, they wont be cheap, avoid at all costs cheap ball joints

 

 

I'm not sure I quite follow what is meant in point 3, and it's pretty important. Could it be clarified please? ta.

 

I think moke has clarified it, if not let us know

 

manual also cautions: "it is imperative that the ball joint should be able to rotate and articulate freely in all planes"

[humph]

I do follow (I think), the confusion is in the terminology used, "no nip" and "end float".

[fenghuang]

My Haynes makes no mention of lapping. I know what it is, but what is the correct way to do it on the ball joints?

And is it necessary to remove the hubs as per Haynes's instructions?

[RooBoonix]

I used fine valve grinding paste and twisted by hand in all directions until they moved smoothly. If they feel smooth in your hand, it doesn't always mean they are smooth when fitted. Mine weren't perfect but god knows what they would've been like if I hadn't lapped them!

 

And no you don't have to remove the hubs, I had to buy a ball joint socket and used a combination of my feet, my dad and a big breaker bar getting the old ones undone. The hub movement is a pain but it's certainly possible.

 

Hope that helps,

Cam.

[Spider]

I do follow (I think), the confusion is in the terminology used, "no nip" and "end float".

 

When you talk bad to the missus, the dog 'nips' you. In other words he latches on and won't let go. In terms of the Ball Joint, it's much the same, ie, it locks or is tight, or needs effort to move it.

 

 

End float is free play or looseness / sloppiness / 'floating' in free space.

 

 

 

Here's the factory Torque settings;-