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Mini Getting Hot In Motorway Not In Town.. Weird..


Best Answer MattyH52 , 30 April 2015 - 06:24 PM

Right an update....

As far as I know, It's a standard 998 with a stage one kit from minispeed. Compression ranges from 180 to 190 so I'm not sure If that's normal or high FOR A STANDARD 998? Definitely higher than any of my old cars though,

It was running really lean and the timing was 0 degrees.. I have (with the help of friends and family who know a bit) adjusted the timing to 10 degrees at 1000, and made the air fuel mix richer. I also swapped plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, oil and filter and it now seems to be better, although it still gets near the top of the gauge when on long uphill stretches.

I'm not sure if the old rad was uprated and I've chucked it now.

I can definitely say that it is going like a rocket compared to before so something is right!

I have booked into ML Motorsport for a good check over and a proper tune up so hopefully they'll suss it out.

Thanks to everyone for your help. Go to the full post


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17 replies to this topic

#1 MattyH52

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 03:47 PM

Hi all,

I recently replaced all the cooling system in the mini, (rad, hoses, fan, thermostat.) But since it has been getting hot ( very near the red) on a motorway journey but not in traffic. I left it running on the drive for 40 mins and it stayed in the middle, but as soon as I went on a long uphill stretch on the motorway it got really hot. Is this normal?

There is def no airlock, the heater doesn't work so can't turn that on but all was fine before it was messed with.

A garage messed about with timing and fuel mixture to pass emissions. Could this be contributing?

Any ideas would be helpful!

Cheers.

#2 Dusky

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 03:57 PM

Yes.probably running too lean.

#3 klivins

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 05:14 PM

Is the fan correct way. Iirc its easy to put wrong way. The fan needs to be pushing air out to the weel arch.

#4 MattyH52

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 05:23 PM

Hmm. I better check that.... I copied the old one. Was ok before so think its ok.

#5 KernowCooper

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 06:06 PM

Timing retarded or a weak mixture would increase the engine temperature under load, the fan blades need to be this way towards the radiator (



#6 MattyH52

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Posted 23 April 2015 - 05:12 PM

Thanks for the advice. Fan is the correct way. I am going to get the timing checked and a tune up. Hopefully that'll sort it. I'll post again to let you know it's resolved.. Or not!

#7 CK's mini

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Posted 23 April 2015 - 07:16 PM

I had a similar problem. Turned out to be the water pump if it helps.

#8 MattyH52

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 07:58 PM

Thanks CK, I think that's may the problem?

Still getting hot on the motorway.

Adjusted the timing today and It is now reading 10 degrees at 1000 rpm and 20 degrees at 3000 rpm. It was previously 0 degrees at 1000 rpm but I didn't test under load and advanced it straight away. I understand that it depends on the weights activated by the vacuum? Sorry for my ignorance! I have learned a lot today but still not enough...

It starts really well, and revs freely right through. Still tappety but I'm going to adjust them next.

I have the London-Brighton in a couple of weeks and just want to make it in one piece.

#9 KernowCooper

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 08:11 PM

You did the timing with the vacuum advance off and blocked ? if the timing previous to the adjustment was 0degs at 1000rpm then it would have run hot when you load it up



#10 MattyH52

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 08:23 PM

Yes the timing was 0 degrees with the vacuum off but didn't block it. And set the timing the same way to 10 degrees. Should I do it again and block it off?

It is running so much better I thought I'd cracked it! Also slightly less hot, but still getting warmer rather than cooler on the motorway.

#11 KernowCooper

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 09:30 PM

Blocking the advance pipe just stops the engine drawing air and making the idle rough on engines, yours is ok if you managed to do the timing. Where does it run on the gauge now



#12 cal844

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 09:31 PM

Id say correct the timing(set it with vacuum advance blocked) which thermostat is fitted?

Is the fuelling lean??

#13 KernowCooper

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 09:50 PM

You didnt have a twin core rad on it before and replaced it with a standard single, this is a standard engine? when running whats the flow like as you take the revs up



#14 Gr4h4m

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Posted 29 April 2015 - 06:57 AM

IMO with a few mods on the engine you Defoe need a two core rad, but at high speed you also need decent airflow. A lot of people say that you don't need a fan at high speed, I tried it without and and electric fan for traffic but the car got hot on the motorway until I put the mech fan back on.

A good 2 core, two blade fan and a health water pump with the correct pulley has always worked for me.

#15 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 April 2015 - 05:35 PM

IMO with a few mods on the engine you Defoe need a two core rad, but at high speed you also need decent airflow. A lot of people say that you don't need a fan at high speed, I tried it without and and electric fan for traffic but the car got hot on the motorway until I put the mech fan back on.

A good 2 core, two blade fan and a health water pump with the correct pulley has always worked for me.

Exactly what I run in my 1330 (95bhp) and mine runs wound up just below normal






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