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Trouble Starting Rebuilt Engine


Best Answer frobnitzz , 17 May 2015 - 03:58 PM

Woop!

 

Bit more persistence and the engine is running now - well it idles and revs, so I can set about tuning with a light now :) Off to t'bay!

 

I'd read a post on here about the original dizzy position not mattering after a rebuild, that it wouldn't necessarily be in the same position as others or as it used to be depending on if 'something' wasn't fit back in factory orientation. I'm guessing I didn't, so set it to back to 8 deg, some sure start and win! (well, eventually!).

 

After a few minutes running I knocked the rad cap slightly and cold water starter pouring out of it and the overlow, the cap is a bit ancient so I'll order another one.

 

So pleased, my first rebuild! I know it's early days, but the satisfaction is immense :)

 

Super exiting video here, complete with a bit of revving and comedy rad leak at the end! 

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#1 frobnitzz

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 05:08 PM

Hi,

 

I rebuilt my MG metro engine, it didn't have any issues when I last ran it - but hadn't been run for 5+ years since then and was due to go in to my project car so an overhaul seemed like a good idea :) It's had new rings, bearings/shells, gaskets, head was dipped and new valve seals, valves lapped in, block dipped etc (had the head and block dip done at a machine shop). New single timing chain & tensioner, new coil, spark plugs, leads.

 

I'm running the pre-verto clutch, flywheel and inertia starter. This setup was how I had it last time it ran.

 

Attached File  IMG_0598.JPG   78.51K   4 downloads

 

So... when turning it over, it's struggling, then it stops and the starter cable end gets hot. (my starter solenoid is knackered so I'm bypassing it to turn the starter). If I take all the spark plugs out it turns over fine. wumwumwum no problem, so I know nothing it jammed inside at least!

 

So far, I've:

 

-Checked the distributor by putting cylinder 1 (rad side) in to compression TDC, then checking the rotor is pointing to point 1.

-Checked I have spark using some inline spark checkers. They flash, so all good.

-Adjusted the HIF44 carb by taking the pot off, then turned the mix screw till the jet was flush with the deck, then wound the screw back 2 turns to take it back down. Then I checked the oil, used SU dashpot oil.

-Checked and adjusted valve clearances

-Changed the starter motor for another one.

-Checked the order of my HT leads.

-Swore at it.

-Hooked it up to the battery on another car

 

Attached File  IMG_0591.JPG   61.52K   6 downloads

 

The vac advance is normally connected, it was just off in the pic :)

 

When it's in TDC on 1, this is where the flywheel sits. I think that might have been 4 degrees off TDC actually at the next time I checked it was more to the left on the 5.

 

Attached File  IMG_0593.JPG   42.86K   4 downloads

Attached File  IMG_0597.JPG   77.9K   3 downloads

 

It's also worth noting the wiring loom is untested and I've pretty much just made it up and stripped out what I don't need. I also don't have choke or throttle cables in yet, so I just tied up the choke for now.

 

Though the changing of dizzy, messing with the carb and valve clearances I had it backfiring through the carb a couple of times - then once, just once, it actually fired for a few turns before returning to the 'getting stuck' type behavior.

 

Is the compression too much after the rebuild for a normal starter to take?

 

Have I made a mistake on the cam timing when putting it back together? (I followed Haynes, matched the dots on the sprockets).

 

Help! and thanks :)



#2 frobnitzz

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 05:17 PM

Couple of clips:

 

1. Slow turnover

 

Attached File  IMG_0599.MOV   909.38K   14 downloads

 

2. With spark plugs removed

 

Attached File  IMG_0600.MOV   894.87K   6 downloads



#3 frobnitzz

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 06:40 PM

I've dug out some pics of the engine when it was last running and it would appear my dizzy is in the wrong orientation by quite a bit. The vac advance pipe should be horizontal, but I've got it way round to the left. Google image searching and I can see other metros to confirm. So.. twisting it round, setting cylinder 1 to TDC and the rotor isn't close to where the point would be in the cap? I'm 'fairly' sure it's the right cap, just by the screws rather than clips and it looks like one on minispares. It's a new one, though I've had it knocking about for ages - can't see it in my minispares history.

 

Back in the day...

 

Attached File  IMG_0604.JPG   47.05K   0 downloads

 

So now, in this position at TDC. hmm

 

Attached File  IMG_0602.JPG   70.73K   3 downloads

 

Attached File  IMG_0603.JPG   61.15K   2 downloads



#4 frobnitzz

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:17 PM

I reckon the cam timings out, I must have got it wrong.



#5 frobnitzz

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:32 PM

Saying that, just watched this >  which is the bit of the build I skipped (even though I bought a protractor)... because I was using all same parts, so just reused the original key.



#6 frobnitzz

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 03:58 PM   Best Answer

Woop!

 

Bit more persistence and the engine is running now - well it idles and revs, so I can set about tuning with a light now :) Off to t'bay!

 

I'd read a post on here about the original dizzy position not mattering after a rebuild, that it wouldn't necessarily be in the same position as others or as it used to be depending on if 'something' wasn't fit back in factory orientation. I'm guessing I didn't, so set it to back to 8 deg, some sure start and win! (well, eventually!).

 

After a few minutes running I knocked the rad cap slightly and cold water starter pouring out of it and the overlow, the cap is a bit ancient so I'll order another one.

 

So pleased, my first rebuild! I know it's early days, but the satisfaction is immense :)

 

Super exiting video here, complete with a bit of revving and comedy rad leak at the end! 



#7 Stu1961

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 07:26 PM

Well done, know that feeling too.






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