17 replies to this topic

[Helter_skelter]

hi, took the mini for some tracking today after fitting new tyres. It was miles out. However they said they couldn't get it perfect due to the subframe moving cause the mounts are worn. So I'll need to replace them (I'm new to Mini's) so at first I thought get stiffer bushes /mounts but after a search or two I noticed that alot of people said that they are horrid and cause cracking etc etc. So which ones do I actually need and where's best to get them (can't see anything obvious to me) also would this be a job a novice could do with a Haynes manual and some tools or is it a big job?
Thanks

[Cooperman]

You need a full solid mount set from Mini Spares.

it is not a difficult job and will transform the steering 'feel' and response. In fact, it will be as the Mini was originally designed to be.

[nicklouse]

You have a total of 6 mounts. Two at the front and two at the rear of the du frame and then the tower mounts top and bottom.

A Haynes and a having and axel stands will see you right. Oh and maybe a big socket for the big timer bolt.

BUT even if they are worn getting soft they sound still gave been able to track it.

May be you use of words rather than thier meaning?

Tower mounts I would go solid. The others.... Rubber.

[Helter_skelter]

Yeah they have tracked it as it was all over before now it's fine. Their exact words were "we got it as best as we can with the movement. As when we try to adjust one side further the frame and other side moves"
Thanks for both your replies I shall go have a look for the set.

Edited by Helter_skelter, 13 May 2015 - 12:13 AM.

[Helter_skelter]

http://www.minispare...CFSvJtAodkDAA9g
Just double check this is the one you mean. These won't cause any of the cracking or anything people mention?

[Cooperman]

http://www.minispare...CFSvJtAodkDAA9g
Just double check this is the one you mean. These won't cause any of the cracking or anything people mention?

That is the kit you need.

Just check the bulkhead at floor level where the rear mounts fit. It can crack over time. If it is cracked repair/reinforce locally with 1.2 mm thick steel plate fitted inside the car and it will be fine.

Solid mounts should always be fitted at all 6 locations to ensure that the dynamic loads are resolved into the shell in the correct places.

As above, not a difficult job, but check the floor under the carpets for corrosion or splitting before starting the job. It will probably be fine, but just be sure.

Apart from the improved steering response and better overall driving 'feel' solid mounts make the sub-frame a part of the vehicle structure and it strengthens up the entire front end.

[adcyork]

You have a total of 6 mounts. Two at the front and two at the rear of the du frame and then the tower mounts top and bottom.

A Haynes and a having and axel stands will see you right. Oh and maybe a big socket for the big timer bolt.

BUT even if they are worn getting soft they sound still gave been able to track it.

May be you use of words rather than thier meaning?

Tower mounts I would go solid. The others.... Rubber.

 

Doing this is bad practice. With the subframe fixed at the top of the towers and the lower and front most rubber mounts allowing flex the subframe is subsequently producing a big cantilever around the bulkhead cross member during acceleration and braking.

 

Either fit all rubber or all solid mounts, a combination is poor engineering practice.

[CityEPete]

Since I did mine on the city mini spares have introduced a half solid half rubber tower kit, I'm tempted to fit a set to my Mayfair along with OEM front and rear?

[Cooperman]

I really can see no benefits to having anything other than all solid mounts. That is how the car was designed by Issigonis and rubber was only introduced when the target market changed to middle-aged women (that is true, by the way). The new target market was thought to be less interested in the superb steering for which the car was well-known and more interested in a softer overall feel. So if you want to drive like an old woman, rubber mounting is the way to go  .

Fit all solid and be pleasantly pleased with the new steering response.

[CityEPete]

As it is not a race car I am still tempted to go OEM though but just those top tower washers solid to tighten it a little, that sounds perfect for the wifes tidy '95 Mayfair, what with those plush seats and walnut dash it would be fitting to have some luxury from the road noise, Lol.

 

http://www.minispare...tower.aspx|Back to search

[zerobelow]

As I understand it, you want either all rubber mounts, or all solid ones. Mixing and matching can lead to over stressing the mounts and the body where you mount it. 

 

If you only do the top mounts, then the bottom mounts will be trying to let the subframe move while the top one will be trying to prevent movement. So either the top ones will be doing all the work of keeping it still, or it will move, and cause damage to the top mounts. 

[CityEPete]

The new minispares one only has solid washers for above the bulkhead, the pads below still allow some flex in conjunction with poly or rubber mounts, just like doing the tower bolts up REALLY tight I suppose?

I'm tempted to just keep the lot OEM other than poly tie bars and steady bars etc.

[Cooperman]

As above, all solid or all rubber, but not a mix & match.

IMHO the rubber mounts were one of the worst things they ever did to the classic Mini. With a solidly bolted-in front sub-frame the entire car is stronger and steers better. 

I can't think of any modern car which has the entire front suspension/sub-frame mounted on rubber bits. It's very poor design. I know my BMW has its front sub-frame solidly bolted in as has my son's Audi A4 and Grandson's Mondeo.

[Fast Ivan]

so is it necessary to reinforce the area around the rear mounts if you go solid?

[zerobelow]

You shouldn't need to reinforce the locations if going solid, however, regardless of whether you go solid or rubber, as a previous poster mentioned, you want to check the mounting areas and verify that there isn't any obvious structural damage. If there is damage to the body at those points, then depending on the level of damage, you may need to take various measures, from using large washers, a steel backing plate in the cabin, or if it's severely rusted, then having rust repair performed. You need to do that regardless of whether it's solid or rubber.

 

My car is entirely fiberglass, and I've gone with solid mounts. I put very large fender washers on the inside of the cabin floor, and at the nose where the subframe mounts came through, and am expecting that to be fine.