Hello all
My Cooper 1.3i 1995 has been off the road for 8 months now after the head gasket failed. Now the weathers good I'm going to attempt to change the gasket myself, has anyone got any tips or tricks for making the job easier and is there any repairs I could do while the head is off? Also while trying to replace the exhaust downpipe the 3 bolts that connect it to the manifold have rounded off, does anybody know what size bolts they are so I can buy some new ones???
Any help would be great!
Thanks all!
Jeff

Head Gasket SPi
Started by
lersxt
, Jul 24 2006 08:54 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 24 July 2006 - 08:54 PM
#2
Posted 24 July 2006 - 09:14 PM
Not bolts, but nuts and studs
Not sure if they are metric mate or Imperial 5/16ths UNF, no longer have one to check either.
First tip would be to mark the hinges on the bonnet and remove the bonnet, save your back.
Set the engine at TDC, then turn it another 90 degrees, Ish.
Slacken off all the tappet adjusting screws befor starting removing the head.
Most important, lable all push rods and ensure they go back in the same place. Ue a piece of card marked 1 to 8 and push the rods through it in the right order. No 1 is the rad end of the engine.
Use the correct gaskets. The injection exhaust gasket and the BK450 head gasket.
Not sure if they are metric mate or Imperial 5/16ths UNF, no longer have one to check either.
First tip would be to mark the hinges on the bonnet and remove the bonnet, save your back.
Set the engine at TDC, then turn it another 90 degrees, Ish.
Slacken off all the tappet adjusting screws befor starting removing the head.
Most important, lable all push rods and ensure they go back in the same place. Ue a piece of card marked 1 to 8 and push the rods through it in the right order. No 1 is the rad end of the engine.
Use the correct gaskets. The injection exhaust gasket and the BK450 head gasket.
#3
Posted 24 July 2006 - 09:29 PM
get some pentrating oil down the stud holes (especially the middle front one.) Ig you had any leaks from the water jacket around that area then it could be seized to that stud.
Get some natural rope and feed it down the spark plug holes. Turn it over on the starter and that'll push the head off
Yeah leave the nuts on a bit just in case.
lots of kitchen roll to stick down holes etc to stop the crug finding it's way into the engine.
and you might as well change the inlet stem seals whilst you're there. (have you got a valve spring compressor?)
Good luck
Get some natural rope and feed it down the spark plug holes. Turn it over on the starter and that'll push the head off

lots of kitchen roll to stick down holes etc to stop the crug finding it's way into the engine.
and you might as well change the inlet stem seals whilst you're there. (have you got a valve spring compressor?)
Good luck
#4
Posted 24 July 2006 - 09:39 PM
Get some natural rope and feed it down the spark plug holes. Turn it over on the starter and that'll push the head off
Yeah leave the nuts on a bit just in case.
That's an interesting one. Never heard that before. Nice one.
#5
Posted 26 July 2006 - 06:54 PM
Thanks all
Does anyone know what the Compression pressure Bar or PSi should be on a healthy Spi engine?
I'll have a go at the gasket this weekend, wish me luck!
Thanks again
Jeff
Does anyone know what the Compression pressure Bar or PSi should be on a healthy Spi engine?
I'll have a go at the gasket this weekend, wish me luck!
Thanks again
Jeff
#6
Posted 26 July 2006 - 07:02 PM
10 to 14 bar. 12 is a good figure to aim for
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