Oil Catch Tank
#16
Posted 04 June 2015 - 08:48 PM
Think on.......
#17
Posted 04 June 2015 - 10:15 PM
Rebuild every 2000km? Crikey, I'd have been on my 5th rebuild on the Melbourne to Bali roadtrip at that rate!
#18
Posted 05 June 2015 - 05:35 AM
Thats a road weekend racer car, not a real roadcar and you know it ;)
#19
Posted 05 June 2015 - 08:08 AM
K&N filter IS the worst lol. It restricts the breathing even more.
Thats a road weekend racer car, not a real roadcar and you know it ;)
K&N are the worst filters ? Is this a serious statement ?
Phil.
#20
Posted 05 June 2015 - 08:09 AM
I put a catch can between the breather and the carb on my son's 998. At the rolling road they disconnected it as the engine didn't like it. Blocked off the HS4 and connected the breather to one side of the catch can, the other open vented.
#21
Posted 05 June 2015 - 08:12 AM
K&N filter IS the worst lol. It restricts the breathing even more.
Thats a road weekend racer car, not a real roadcar and you know it ;)
K&N are the worst filters ? Is this a serious statement ?
Phil.
I have a K+N on our HS4. At best I think they are a cosmetic item. The info I've read is that the standard air filter box with a decent element will likely breathe better. The K+N may cost you a horse or two, so what?
#22
Posted 05 June 2015 - 09:15 AM
#23
Posted 05 June 2015 - 09:59 AM
I don't think the Mini suffers from rear crank oil leaks like the in-line Midget engine, but on those it's better to have a bit of vacuum on the crankcase to hold the oil back. To do that you have to connect the engine breather to the inlet manifold. I've seen a couple going via catch tanks and they worked but they were not road engines.
Edited by gazza82, 05 June 2015 - 10:01 AM.
#24
Posted 05 June 2015 - 10:26 AM
Rebuild every 2000km? Crikey, I'd have been on my 5th rebuild on the Melbourne to Bali roadtrip at that rate!
I never said that the engine needed it, and I was talking miles. Plus I'm not being serious.
#25
Posted 05 June 2015 - 12:24 PM
Just to be clear, as far a power production goes, connecting the breathers back into the intake system and drawing the vapour in with the intake charge, is a no no ! The oil vapour will dilute the intake charge and reduce fuel octane. Not what you want.
As far a people saying K&N filters don't flow well, I don't understand that ? It's probably the best known and most proven filters ever made in both terms of minimal restriction and filtering ability. Show me another filter that actually filters and flows as well for a given size....
Phil.
#26
Posted 05 June 2015 - 12:33 PM
I'm a little confused by this thread ! Lol
Just to be clear, as far a power production goes, connecting the breathers back into the intake system and drawing the vapour in with the intake charge, is a no no ! The oil vapour will dilute the intake charge and reduce fuel octane. Not what you want.
As far a people saying K&N filters don't flow well, I don't understand that ? It's probably the best known and most proven filters ever made in both terms of minimal restriction and filtering ability. Show me another filter that actually filters and flows as well for a given size....
Phil.
+1 on this.
There used to be a school of thought that is was best to run the breathers into the front end of the sills. That way you would keep the rust down whilst getting rid of the oily smoke from the crankcase. So the older the engine got, the more oil it chucked and the better protected the insides of the sills were.
Not that I've ever don't this, but it is very easy to achieve.
#27
Posted 05 June 2015 - 01:02 PM
The actual reason why you want to connect the breathers to the carbs is to avoid poisonous oil vapours in your cabin.
An 'open vent' system as long as its got filters + catch tank you wont be sucking any crap in the engine really.
#28
Posted 05 June 2015 - 01:08 PM
On the 'S' I have a 1/2 litre plastic catch tank under the LH wing with two breather pipes, one from the rocker cover and the other from the LH cam chest cover running to it.
Just one point is that the catch tank pipe entry points need to be sealed, with a couple of small 1/4" holes right in the top so that water cannot get into the tank.
Remove it every so often to empty out the oil sludge and wash it out with B & C Cleaner.
#29
Posted 05 June 2015 - 02:42 PM
Now that's an interesting plan, after all you hardly ever see a rusty front subframe !+1 on this.I'm a little confused by this thread ! Lol
Just to be clear, as far a power production goes, connecting the breathers back into the intake system and drawing the vapour in with the intake charge, is a no no ! The oil vapour will dilute the intake charge and reduce fuel octane. Not what you want.
As far a people saying K&N filters don't flow well, I don't understand that ? It's probably the best known and most proven filters ever made in both terms of minimal restriction and filtering ability. Show me another filter that actually filters and flows as well for a given size....
Phil.
There used to be a school of thought that is was best to run the breathers into the front end of the sills. That way you would keep the rust down whilst getting rid of the oily smoke from the crankcase. So the older the engine got, the more oil it chucked and the better protected the insides of the sills were.
Not that I've ever don't this, but it is very easy to achieve.
#30
Posted 05 June 2015 - 04:19 PM
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