8 replies to this topic

[LittleMissD]

Since I bought my car I've had troubles starting it. I was told it had a carb problem but even so it wouldn't turn over, which is nothing to do with the carb. Worked out it was the solenoid so replaced that and now the car turns over but I still cant get it to start.
I have replaced the ht leads as these were lose but this has made no difference. Fuel is getting through so I have no idea what the problem is.

Could it be the points?

I dont have any knowledge or car mechanics so I am learning as I go along.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Or any links yo pages that will help.

If anyone is based near Tonbridge and fancies having a look and getting my mini going I would be very grateful as until the engine goes the project is at a standstill

Cheers

[Fast Ivan]

couple of starting points - are you getting a spark at each of the leads?

Have you checked the timing?

[LittleMissD]

i think I checked for the spark correct, but spark plugs are pretty new so they should work? apologies if what I am saying is wrong, like I said I have no knowledge.

 

And how do you check the timing?

 

Cheers

[peter-b]

To check the spark take one lead off at plug and pull back insulator, now holding it, with fingers away from end, hold it about 5-8mm away from metal part of engine, head bolt is good. Now get someone to try starting it, the spark should look thick and with a bluey yellow colour. If its good it'll look like a tiny lightning bolt, if its weak and wont jump gap it could be points are nutted, if it jumps gap and is thin like pin, it's usually condensor. IMO, points and condenser should be replaced together. Another thing to try involves waiting till night time or in a closed up garage. It needs to be really dark. If it'll actually runs thats good but It should work just turning it over, look for arcing or glowing around plug leads, dist cap and coil, this will indicate 'leaking' spark. If its really pitch black and you have suppressor leads, they actually glow very slightly.

[LittleMissD]

To check the spark take one lead off at plug and pull back insulator, now holding it, with fingers away from end, hold it about 5-8mm away from metal part of engine, head bolt is good. Now get someone to try starting it, the spark should look thick and with a bluey yellow colour. If its good it'll look like a tiny lightning bolt, if its weak and wont jump gap it could be points are nutted, if it jumps gap and is thin like pin, it's usually condensor. IMO, points and condenser should be replaced together. Another thing to try involves waiting till night time or in a closed up garage. It needs to be really dark. If it'll actually runs thats good but It should work just turning it over, look for arcing or glowing around plug leads, dist cap and coil, this will indicate 'leaking' spark. If its really pitch black and you have suppressor leads, they actually glow very slightly.

 

cheers I will give the spark thing a go today.

 

If it is the points, which is what I am guessing it is. how do I change them?

 

Cheers

[Brian422]

Would respectfully suggest investing in Haynes Workshop Manual. Although it won't be able to provide all the answers, it will give a good bases.

 

Whilst agreeing with peter-b, I would suggest rotating engine until Points are close, removing Coil Lead from Distributor Cap and holding end near engine block. Opening the points should produce a nice fat spark. Doing this will check Coil, Points, Condenser and L.T. Leads, and eliminate Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm. I once had an intermittent staling because spark was shorting through Rotor Arm to Distributor Cam. Have you checked firing order is 1-3-4-2 (Number 1 nearest Water Pump)?

 

Hope this helps.

[LittleMissD]

I have a Haynes manuel.. just need to read it properly

 

Would respectfully suggest investing in Haynes Workshop Manual. Although it won't be able to provide all the answers, it will give a good bases.

 

Whilst agreeing with peter-b, I would suggest rotating engine until Points are close, removing Coil Lead from Distributor Cap and holding end near engine block. Opening the points should produce a nice fat spark. Doing this will check Coil, Points, Condenser and L.T. Leads, and eliminate Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm. I once had an intermittent staling because spark was shorting through Rotor Arm to Distributor Cam. Have you checked firing order is 1-3-4-2 (Number 1 nearest Water Pump)?

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers for the response.

 

Stupid question, but how do you turn the engine?

 

I shall check the firing order, it could be wrong. the last guy to own the mini did a lot of playing around and never really knew what he was doing

[blacktulip]

I have a Haynes manuel.. just need to read it properly

 

Would respectfully suggest investing in Haynes Workshop Manual. Although it won't be able to provide all the answers, it will give a good bases.

 

Whilst agreeing with peter-b, I would suggest rotating engine until Points are close, removing Coil Lead from Distributor Cap and holding end near engine block. Opening the points should produce a nice fat spark. Doing this will check Coil, Points, Condenser and L.T. Leads, and eliminate Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm. I once had an intermittent staling because spark was shorting through Rotor Arm to Distributor Cam. Have you checked firing order is 1-3-4-2 (Number 1 nearest Water Pump)?

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers for the response.

 

Stupid question, but how do you turn the engine?

 

I shall check the firing order, it could be wrong. the last guy to own the mini did a lot of playing around and never really knew what he was doing

put the car in 4th gear and rock the car forwards. or jack up the front and turn the wheel by hand (in 4th gear too)

also to help turn the engine, take the spark plugs out.

Edited by blacktulip, 06 June 2015 - 09:52 AM.

[LittleMissD]

 

I have a Haynes manuel.. just need to read it properly

 

Would respectfully suggest investing in Haynes Workshop Manual. Although it won't be able to provide all the answers, it will give a good bases.

 

Whilst agreeing with peter-b, I would suggest rotating engine until Points are close, removing Coil Lead from Distributor Cap and holding end near engine block. Opening the points should produce a nice fat spark. Doing this will check Coil, Points, Condenser and L.T. Leads, and eliminate Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm. I once had an intermittent staling because spark was shorting through Rotor Arm to Distributor Cam. Have you checked firing order is 1-3-4-2 (Number 1 nearest Water Pump)?

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers for the response.

 

Stupid question, but how do you turn the engine?

 

I shall check the firing order, it could be wrong. the last guy to own the mini did a lot of playing around and never really knew what he was doing

put the car in 4th gear and rock the car forwards. or jack up the front and turn the wheel by hand (in 4th gear too)

also to help turn the engine, take the spark plugs out.

 

 

Thank you, sorry for the silly question. Bit of a noob here