23 replies to this topic

[Guess-Works.com]

Engine out gearbox off, strip, clean, rebuild, refit to engine and engine back into car..

Unless you can do most of the work yourself, somewhere between 500 and 1k

[Notepad12]

Engine out gearbox off, strip, clean, rebuild, refit to engine and engine back into car..

Unless you can do most of the work yourself, somewhere between 500 and 1k

So for now, while its okay to change into second in a semi low speed without making a grating sound (Also I can just change down into first then back up to second), is it worth doing that?

 

Or does it need to be repaired ASAP? 

[Notepad12]

Reading around on line, changing the oil might be able to help? ( I don't know what oil is in there currently) Also he had a new clutch fitted and apparently that might have done something to the linkage causing the sound...any ideas?

[Spider]

If it's grinding now, changing the Oil won't help.

 

I've found by the time 2nd Gear Baulk Ring has worn to the point that you have described, usually the whole Gearbox is up for an overhaul and besides, considering the work (labour content) between just replacing 2nd Gear Baulk Ring and a complete Overhaul is almost the same.

 

To replace the baulk Ring, the engine needs to come out, the gearbox removed from the engine and just about the gearbox stripped almost all the way down, there only about 30 minutes more work to strip it right down.

 

So, the really the only difference is the cost of new parts.

 

Sure, have the clutch adjustment checked, but if it selects Reverse Gear without Grinding, then that'll likely be OK.

[Notepad12]

If it's grinding now, changing the Oil won't help.

 

I've found by the time 2nd Gear Baulk Ring has worn to the point that you have described, usually the whole Gearbox is up for an overhaul and besides, considering the work (labour content) between just replacing 2nd Gear Baulk Ring and a complete Overhaul is almost the same.

 

To replace the baulk Ring, the engine needs to come out, the gearbox removed from the engine and just about the gearbox stripped almost all the way down, there only about 30 minutes more work to strip it right down.

 

So, the really the only difference is the cost of new parts.

 

Sure, have the clutch adjustment checked, but if it selects Reverse Gear without Grinding, then that'll likely be OK.

 

I think I might just keep it how it is and just change when at a slightly slower speed (managed to drive it around today without it making a noise) 

 

How much did it cost you though?

[Spider]

I'm in Aust, so pricing would be a bit different from this side of the World.

 

I overhaul my own Gearboxes, so Labour costs are about a box of beer!

 

In new Parts though, around $820 AUD at Trade Prices. That's for a complete Bearing Kit (including Diff and Drop Gears), Set of 4 Baulk Rings, Selector Forks, Detent Springs, Layshaft, Diff Pin, Plant Gears, Thrusts for the Diff, Gaskets, Seals & Anti-leak Kit.

 

Just one more thing, continuing to Grind the Gearbox in to Second Gear will damage that Gear and possibly the Synchro Hub, so you could add another $300 AUD on top for those.

[ryomini]

Just want to add my 2c on the oil thing

20w50 in winter is pretty hard on your engine

- just worth bearing in mind

cheap oil and change very often

better oil and wait a little longer

I've heard some say the box gets stiff when the oil is on it's way out - I have never let mine get that far

many small modern cars now run on 0w30 - times change

[Anthony30]

Just want to add my 2c on the oil thing

20w50 in winter is pretty hard on your engine

- just worth bearing in mind

cheap oil and change very often

better oil and wait a little longer

I've heard some say the box gets stiff when the oil is on it's way out - I have never let mine get that far

many small modern cars now run on 0w30 - times change

Not in the gearbox they don't!

[Cooperman]

20w50 is the oil to use in a classic Mini. It is a 55 year old design of gearbox and a 65-year old engine design. That means they need a thicker oil and 20w50 mineral is needed. As for buying a cheap oil and changing it regularly, that is also a no-no because Mini oil should be changed every 155 to 2000 miles even when it's top quality.

You cannot run a classic car by skimping on oil or proper maintenance. If you want to use a cheaper thinner oil, then you need a modern car. Classic cars are different and that needs to be recognised - they are not cheap to own and a lot of DIY skills are needed unless you have loads of money.

As for driving with worn syncromesh, it's what all Mini owners had to do with the early cars. On the early Mk.1's the syncros would last a very short while and then we all had to double de-clutch all the time. Once that technique was learned it was easy - or are younger drivers not able to learn that technique, having been brought up on modern gearboxes. Maybe we older Mini owners should give lessons  .