10 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

As we know they are not a nice fit on a mini. But does anyone know what the difference is.,

Wanting to have a play.

Does anyone have any idea as to the difference in the ball joint pivot points?

Not sure it will do what I want but better have a look at it.


;)

[Ethel]

You need the earliest ball joints to fit the Mini tapers. The steering arms also differ giving bump steer issues. Can't remember for the life of me which is supposed to be the best combination, but sure it's been covered on the forum before.

 

The big difference is the King pin inclination, hence Metties having loads of inwards wheel offset.

 

My car had them on when I got it, and I have to say it handled and stuck pretty well. The bits got junked as they were  cream-crackered. Maybe I should have kept them for reference, but they looked to be standard Metty hubs in standard Mini Arms.

[nicklouse]

I have access to all the arts I was just wondering if anyone had actually done any measurements on the swivel points. So I can do some comparisons. As the top arm is the fixed unit but the points of rotation of the ball joints is different and that is what I am after. So I can model up before spannering.

Measuring the results is easy.

Thinking of comparing with say a bottom ball joint spacer from who ever.
And then an MGF? Ball joint with built in spacer ( wrong taper though but....)

Kinda taking it in the reverse to the Metro which we ran with Mini bits..... Yes arse over tit but.....

[Spider]

The KPA for a Mini Swivel is 9⁰ 30' and for Metro Swivels it's 10⁰ 38', so near enough 1⁰ difference.

 

Also, the off-set (scrub radius) of a metro Hub is greater, while I've not measured it, it does appear to be a LOT. Compare the ET of a Mini Wheel to a Metro one and you'll see what I mean.

 

Again, I haven't measured them to check exact numbers, but the Ball Joint Centre to Centre is greater on a Metro Swivel compared to that of a Mini.

 

A few cars I know that have had them fitted had problems with the Pot Joint disengaging after the geometry is 'corrected' (if you can call it that). IMO, to successfully use the Metro Hubs, you need a longer Top Arm and then move it's pick-up points inboard.

[nicklouse]

the drive shaft length is interesting as I want to "lengthen" mine  as the angle change from diff could be less.

 

if anyone does have any infos it would be good to have.

 

longer top are is not out of the question either.

[Dan]

Keith Calver did very extensive testing on this a while ago, the article is probably on his website.

[nicklouse]

Keith Calver did very extensive testing on this a while ago, the article is probably on his website.

cheers. Will have a look.

[Dan]

I've just looked myself and I can't find it anywhere. Sorry.

I seem to remember the other big difference besides the KPI is the actual height of the thing, the top and bottom ball joints are something like an inch and a half further apart on the Metro, with the steering arm being in a very differnet place too. It makes the actual range of motion quite different.

[nicklouse]

I've just looked myself and I can't find it anywhere. Sorry.
I seem to remember the other big difference besides the KPI is the actual height of the thing, the top and bottom ball joints are something like an inch and a half further apart on the Metro, with the steering arm being in a very differnet place too. It makes the actual range of motion quite different.

Found it. Under brakes. Ok looks like a new top arm and other bits would be needed. A project for later I think.

[The Principal]

try asking KAD how they did theirs - http://www.kentautod...-hub-assemblies

[nicklouse]

that is easy. Mini Geo but using Metro Ball joints. just plug and play.