Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Radiator


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 Dzmarc

Dzmarc

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 250 posts
  • Location: Suffolk

Posted 30 June 2015 - 07:33 AM

Guys, 

 

I've read so much on here regarding radiators and which ones to go for, and I guess I wish I hadn't as i'm now even more confused.  :blink:

 

Obviously the mechanical fan was designed for the job, and i've never had problems with over heating but just thinking for the next project.

 

I was always tempted to go alloy and I've seen some with the electrical fan, which I thought would really help. 

Or even running both fans and slightly bending the inner wing to allow for the electrical fan to be fitted.

Irrespective is there a general consensus of what is now best or is it still the same as all those threads I read from 2011  :D

 

Additionally, has anyone plumbed in an overflow bottle? 

Easy job? 

 

 

 

Thanks



#2 JetBlackEreg

JetBlackEreg

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 130 posts
  • Location: Norfolk
  • Local Club: East Anglian mini club

Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:13 AM

Depends on the spec of the engine, I had an uprated rad in what was my standard 1275 and it didn't overheat once when sitting in traffic for approx 45mins - 1hour at l2b. 

 

I plan to use the same rad for a fast road spec. 



#3 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,080 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Oxfordshire

Posted 30 June 2015 - 12:02 PM

There is nothing to stop you adding an electric fan which is switchable from inside the cabin. This then gives you the option to add that extra bit of cooling if so desired. I have an uprated rad on my clubby with a high capacity water pump and this coped well in traffic.

#4 Dzmarc

Dzmarc

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 250 posts
  • Location: Suffolk

Posted 30 June 2015 - 12:46 PM

Depends on the spec of the engine, I had an uprated rad in what was my standard 1275 and it didn't overheat once when sitting in traffic for approx 45mins - 1hour at l2b. 

 

I plan to use the same rad for a fast road spec. 

 

There is nothing to stop you adding an electric fan which is switchable from inside the cabin. This then gives you the option to add that extra bit of cooling if so desired. I have an uprated rad on my clubby with a high capacity water pump and this coped well in traffic.

 

Going to sound like a right idiot asking this but ... 

 

Would the uprated rad just be the High Spec 2 Core Alloy ones? 



#5 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,080 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Oxfordshire

Posted 30 June 2015 - 12:49 PM

No my one is this one from Minispares

http://www.minispare...|Back to search



#6 JetBlackEreg

JetBlackEreg

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 130 posts
  • Location: Norfolk
  • Local Club: East Anglian mini club

Posted 30 June 2015 - 03:39 PM

Sonikks's one is ideal or you could try the fletcher alloy rads I've heard good things about those. 



#7 Ellie

Ellie

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 298 posts
  • Location: Cornwall
  • Local Club: Cornish Mini Club

Posted 30 June 2015 - 04:10 PM

I've the Fletcher alloy rad, brilliant.
Coupled with a ten inch fan on the inner wing.
Wired to a switch.

#8 Mini Manannán

Mini Manannán

    Well I'll be buggered if I can find it

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,860 posts
  • Location: Middle of the Irish Sea
  • Local Club: man Estate

Posted 01 July 2015 - 05:24 PM

I run a standard el cheapo minispares rad with the standard water pump and a 88c thermostaton my 1293.  I'm down to a two-blade metal fan now as the plastic fan was over-cooling my set-up.  It's what you need rather what you or someone else thinks you need.



#9 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,326 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 01 July 2015 - 07:52 PM

On my 1310 cc 'S' with over 100 bhp I run a standard Cooper 'S' radiator plus an electric auxiliary fan under the front wing bolted to the inner wing and manually switched.

Never had any problems even in competition in Summer. Minis don't overheat any more than any other car so long as the cooling system is in good condition.



#10 andylep

andylep

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: Birmingham
  • Local Club: British Mini Club

Posted 27 November 2015 - 11:50 PM

Sorry if this is a stupid question but with the fletcher radiator do you but the sender in the drain plug hole ? As ive saw others with a sender and a drain plug.



#11 Coxie

Coxie

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 461 posts
  • Location: North devon

Posted 28 November 2015 - 12:54 PM

As I alway had overheating problems with minis in the past, so when i building my latest mini I fitted an up rated rad from minispares and the larger water pump pully to make the water push round a bit slower
It runs too cold now even with an 88 stat.

#12 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,144 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 28 November 2015 - 07:01 PM

I'd never ever use an alloy radiator, yes, I know they are popular and probably many of the guys here may run them, but no, not for me. Cooper / Brass is fine thanks.

 

I always fit up a Header Tank (which is similar to an overflow tank) and I often ask why they didn't do this in the factory, though eventually they did. All my Minis are Clubbies so there's lots of space to fit one in on them, usually just in front of the Alternator, off some fabricated brackets hung from the body, you can see it's cap here

 

SDC10968_zps2d702eff.jpg

 

A few guys fit them up in the wheel arch on the round nose. The Header Tank can be fitted lower than the Radiator, once the system is filled and bled, it will work fine, just takes a while to get to that point.



#13 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,697 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 28 November 2015 - 07:40 PM

 
SDC10968_zps2d702eff.jpg
 


Now then.

What is going on with this car?

Accelerator cable is going through the cross member not going through the bulkhead below the cross member.

And that block to the left (in picture) of the brake MC?

#14 Mini Manannán

Mini Manannán

    Well I'll be buggered if I can find it

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,860 posts
  • Location: Middle of the Irish Sea
  • Local Club: man Estate

Posted 28 November 2015 - 09:02 PM

It's been Spidered! It is intriguing. LHD might explain the throttle cable?

#15 nicklouse

nicklouse

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,697 posts
  • Location: Not Yorkshire
  • Local Club: Anonyme Miniholiker

Posted 28 November 2015 - 09:06 PM

Looks like it has two flexy clutch hoses.
Interesting stat. housing.

Think it is RHD.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users