15 replies to this topic

[monkey]

So I have noticed that one of the front tear drops is missing, there is play in the bottom mounts, and one of the tower mounts in in the wrong position, ( can see the rubber point forward), so I'm going to get a garage to change all the subframe mounts (don't feel confident to do it myself).

So my question is, should I go for the solid mounting kit, or should I stick to standard rubber mounts? From reading the solid kit is going to improve handling, but I hear of the solid bottom mounts "tearing" the toe board?

Also, as I say, I'm going to get a garage to complete the work for me, how long should I expect it to take them? 2hours?

Thanks for reading,

Steve
EDIT: it's a '87 998cc, single bolt subframe, running wide 13's, otherwise fairly standard :-/

Edited by monkey, 09 August 2015 - 08:43 AM.

[Spider]

The early Minis had solid mounted front subrames, in fact ours locally manufactured here in Aust had solids until the end of production (1978). I have to say, with at least the way these subframes mounted up, there hasn't been any issues from tearing of the bodywork at any of the mounting points.

 

If you go Rallying or other hard off road / rough road driving, there maybe issues with tearing though I have to say, I've not seen it.

 

Having put it this way ^ that is referring of course to the MKI (and MKII?) type mounts, whether the conversion parts that are fitted to the later rubber mounted frames work in the same way, I can't say, but I doubt it would be an issue.

[Ethel]

I'd really consider doing it yourself. It's not technically difficult, but could be time consuming. Solid rear mounts should give the floor less of a hammering than failed rubber mounts. It's worth sandwiching the floor with reinforcement plates, they don't need to be welded in.

 

Spider,

 

It's the relocation of the mount to the middle of the toe board that's the issue, not a great bit of design.

[monkey]

Well I think I'm sold on solid mounts then

I don't really have the confidence to give it a go myself Ethel I enjoy doing little bits to it, and have changed head gaskets and the likes in years gone by, but I don't have the confidence to be laying under it whilst taking it to bits. It won't be for a couple of weeks until I can afford it anyway.

Thanks for your replies,

Steve.

[sonikk4]

Do not mix them though so either all solid or all rubber.

 

By going all solid you may find the ride a bit harsher but on the upside the handling will feel better. 

[Cooperman]

If you can change a head gasket you are well able to fit solid sub-frame mounts. There is a lot of guidance available on here from the 'Mini Docs' who will give you a step-by-step guide.

Minis can prove very expensive classic cars to run if straightforward mechanical jobs are put into garages at c.£50 per hour and most owners of classics do the main work themselves. in fact, most could not afford a classic car if they couldn't DIY on most jobs.

[kyle9832]

I have fited solid subframe mounts so on the toe board so should i fit some extra metal? I already have the toe board then an extra layer but will it need yet another layer?

[Cooperman]

You should be OK. Just check for splits on the original floor, but if a 'doubler' plate is already fitted and it is not cracked it will be OK.

The original solid mounts as on Mk.1, Mk.2 and Mk.3 cars had a mounting which bolted through at the base of the bulkhead where it meets the horizontal front of the floor.

It would be easy to modify the solid mounts for later cars to improve the mounting and load resolution into the structure. I'll take a look at this when I get the chance, but my cars are Mk.1's and I don't have a late car here at present to look at.

[Artstu]

It would be easy to modify the solid mounts for later cars to improve the mounting and load resolution into the structure. I'll take a look at this when I get the chance, but my cars are Mk.1's and I don't have a late car here at present to look at.

 

I wonder why no one has ever produced just such a mount. There's an opening for a new product line I think.

[Ethel]

I'd say BL raised the shell on the subby by the thickness of the tower mounts. So an extension. Equivalent to the 2 bolt, solid subby would need packing out the same. Some extra fixings, away from the end, to reduce some of the leverage would be good too.

[monkey]

Well maybe I will see about giving it a go, it won't be until next payday (last day of the month) that I order the mounts along with the other growing list of bits the mini needs.

I have a pair of drive on ramps, is it a case of drive on the ramps, do one side at a time, so remove front tear drop, remove top bolt, undo nuts for rear mount, then carefully jack up (with wood) on the floor pan to lift the body up enough to swap mounts, lower jack, redo nuts, repeat for the other side..?

What sort of issues am I likely to run into?

As always,thanks for the advice

Steve

[Spider]

I'd say BL raised the shell on the subby by the thickness of the tower mounts. So an extenaio. Equivalent to the 2 bolt, solid subby would need packing out the same. Some extra fixings, away feom the end, to reduce some of the leverage would be good too.

 

I've not had a rubber mounted frame to compare and study, however the stock MKI type solid frames have a spacer plate which sits on top of the towers, it's about 1/4" thick

 

 

How thick do the rubber mounts end up or for that matter the after market solid spacers?

[Cooperman]

To do this all you need is a good trolley jack and an imperial tool kit plus socket set with a pry-bar and some big screwdrivers to prise the sub-frame down slightly. All the tools will cost less than a garage would charge for labour.

Do the top and rear ones first, then do them up lightly and do the fronts.

To drop the back of the frame you just need to undo the rear exhaust mounts and the back of the gear linkage to allow the engine to drop. The top engine steady bar needs to be undone, but not much else as the back of the sub-frame only needs to drop about 1".

With the right tools it's a mornings job really, say 4 hours.

[Ethel]

Mmm, I forgot about those spacers. I could measure up my solid conversion mounts for comparison, but I don't think they're much thicker, 3/8" at most.

[Spider]

Cheers.

 

Mmm, I forgot about those spacers.

 

Yes, I have to and the penny has only dropped when it's "Why are those holes (on the front panel / subframe rail) so far out of alignment?"