27 replies to this topic

[bob540]

What grease did you use ?

A high temp bearing grease, made by top oil I think, I'll check in a minute

Edit:
Yeah it's a lithium grease made by top

Edited by bob540, 30 August 2015 - 03:38 PM.

[Spider]

I'm at the point where I'm putting the bearings in and I realised that I'm not actually sure what to grease. I've packed the bearing as you can see below and I've basically coated the entire thing with grease too. Is this correct? You all said I should lightly grease the seals so I'll do that, do I also need to grease the spacer? I assume I do but it's always better to ask.[/img]

 

 

Sorry but that is way too much grease. It will cause the bearing to overheat.

 

Here's the manufacturer's oil on it;-

 

http://www.timken.co...on_Part1of3.pdf

 

http://www.timken.co...on_Part2of3.pdf

 

http://www.timken.co...ase_English.pdf

[bob540]

 
Sorry but that is way too much grease. It will cause the bearing to overheat.

Definitely don't be sorry Spider, it's my first time doing this so I am relying completely on the collective knowledge of everyone on here so any and all advice is welcome :) I didn't fit that one anyway, I figured it was best to leave it until I could find out what to do. I'll just remove some grease and then fit it. So should it just be completely coated but with no excess?

[Spider]

Basically, I 'loose fill' the cage and smear some on the cup.

 

This is the best photo I have on file

 

[jaydee]

Its important when disassembling bearings for maintanance to keep them organized in some way you'll be sure you will not be swapping the inner and the outer as you re fit them in place. They're (or at least should) a matched set where the inner race of a bearing is matched to the outer race.

Also make sure the mating surfaces of inner-outer bearings, cv joint and drive flange are spotless and with no grease, clean the Cv thoroughly as there will be dust and grease on the splines and the threads that can get caught by the bearings as you fit the hub, and get trapped between bearings and the cv.

You grease the bearing with the method preferred then clean the sides with the laser ID markings, these two surfaces will be forced between the drive flange and the cv so it is vital that the mating surfaces are completely spotless.

[sonikk4]

Remember when packing bearings with grease not to use your bare hands, use a pair of nitrile gloves. The sweat etc off your hands will cause corrosion to start.

[bob540]

Thanks @jaydee I have my workspace divided up so I can keep track of which bearings are which. I'm fitting brand new cv joints so they shouldn't be dirty but I will make sure to clean them thoroughly anyway. Stupid question for you now but when you say to keep the mating surfaces clean do you mean the flat parts of the bearings, as in the sides that say timken etc. etc.?

@sonikk4 I actually bought nitrile gloves specifically for doing this job, they're a godsend so more dirty greasy hands for me :)

[jaydee]

Yes exactly

[bob540]

Yes exactly

Perfect, thanks @jaydee :)

[bob540]

Should the oil seals be snug to the bearings when they're tapped in?

[jaydee]

They sit somehow flush to the hub but wont actually touch the bearings, hopefully someone can come with a picture

I doubt you can force them further..

Interesting fact is that to avoid forcing the 'inner' seal further, BL added a very small 'C' spacer between the bearings outer race and the rubber seal as a precaution, and that spacer was deleted at a certain point in the ninties because was a useless part and Rover was cutting costs.

[bob540]

They sit somehow flush to the hub but wont actually touch the bearings, hopefully someone can come with a picture
I doubt you can force them further..
Interesting fact is that to avoid forcing the 'inner' seal further, BL added a very small 'C' spacer between the bearings outer race and the rubber seal as a precaution, and that spacer was deleted at a certain point in the ninties because was a useless part and Rover was cutting costs.

Ahhh, well that explains the spacer the Haynes manual mentions! I wondered what that was about. I tapped them in as far as they would go comfortably and they seem correct, they're practically flush to the bearings but not quite so that seems to make sense given your description.

[Spider]

As the other guys have said, the outboard seal is fitted flush with the outer edge of the hub, the inner one has less of a 'guide' though, hopefully this sketch will make sense

 

 

The did for a short while (as you've picked up on) fit spacers both inboard and outboard, they were a good thing as it was easy, fool proof (almost) and the seals ended up square. The only non fool proof bit with the spacers is that the inner spacer and outer spacer were different thicknesses!

Edited by Moke Spider, 01 September 2015 - 06:45 PM.