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Amp - Wiring


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#1 racingbob

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Posted 23 August 2015 - 08:51 AM

would anyone know the amp of the 2 wires to the coil

blue one and green I think as I want to extend them

there the 2 from the loom

also the 2 from the dizzy lucas electronic

as may have to extend those

#2 phil hill

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Posted 23 August 2015 - 10:34 AM

As in how many amps do the coil wire need to be able to carry ??

 

I'm pretty sure the coil doesn't draw a huge amount of current even though it's resistance is quite low.  You will be fine with around 10 Amps.

 

I've never seen those colour wires for the coil wiring though, has it been extended or modified previously ??  It's usually a white and a white/black trace.

 

Phil.



#3 racingbob

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Posted 23 August 2015 - 11:30 AM

As in how many amps do the coil wire need to be able to carry ??
 
I'm pretty sure the coil doesn't draw a huge amount of current even though it's resistance is quite low.  You will be fine with around 10 Amps.
 
I've never seen those colour wires for the coil wiring though, has it been extended or modified previously ??  It's usually a white and a white/black trace.
 
Phil.


Phil its blue and its thicker. the other one is green or brown cant remember bit thinner

then theres the 2 from the dizzy thinner still white and white black

#4 dklawson

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Posted 23 August 2015 - 03:37 PM

As Phil said the blue, green, and/or brown wires would be "non-factory".  

 

In general, if you short the points so the coil is energized 100% of the time the coil will pass about 4 Amps with the engine off.  The actual duty cycle of the coil when the engine is running is not 100%, it's more closely related to the dwell angle so a bit less than 50%.  

Phill's recommendation of wiring that can handle 10 Amps will be great.



#5 KernowCooper

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Posted 23 August 2015 - 09:47 PM

As Phil said the blue, green, and/or brown wires would be "non-factory".  

 

In general, if you short the points so the coil is energized 100% of the time the coil will pass about 4 Amps with the engine off.  The actual duty cycle of the coil when the engine is running is not 100%, it's more closely related to the dwell angle so a bit less than 50%.  

Phill's recommendation of wiring that can handle 10 Amps will be great.

Spot on Doug not many realise the duty cycle is taken into consideration when working out the amps, engine not running ignition on points closed the coil becomes a 48w heating element






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