My MPi had done 85k miles when some piston rings went pop. Had the engine taken out and the block and head sent off to be refreshed. I've got the block and head back and started to put back together. I got an ARP stud and nut kit and BK450 head gasket. Using a brand new torque wrench and tightening in the correct pattern I've done the nuts up in stages 30, 40 then 50ft/lbs. I've filled with coolant and the gasket is leaking at the back and over the water pump. Anyone got any suggestions what the issue is? Thanks.

New Head Gasket Weeping Coolant
#1
Posted Yesterday, 02:45 PM
#2
Posted Yesterday, 03:36 PM
Coolant as in water or a mix of water and antifreeze? It should be plain water initially and some of us like to run the engine without any coolant for a minute or so to seal the gasket, then fill it with plain water and run it to temperature. Also, ARP stipulate 45ft/lb when using their lubricant.
#3
Posted Yesterday, 04:23 PM
I've put in the pink OAT coolant that it's been running on for years. I've done a few Mini head gaskets over the years and never had any of them leak like this
#4
Posted Yesterday, 04:38 PM
#5
Posted Yesterday, 04:45 PM
Hi,
I had the same problem on Moop's A+ 998 engine.
Sorry cannot seem to post a link but search the forum for Head Gasket posted 24th June 2022 in Problems, Questions and Technical.
Paddy
#6
Posted Yesterday, 04:52 PM
From your post, "Refreshing" the block and head doesn't seem to keep the water in.
Anything that is done to two mating surfaces should be finished by surface grinding. Refreshing is a bit vague.
A straight edge and feeler gauges ought to show up imperfections that allow water to escape.
#7
Posted Yesterday, 05:35 PM
#8
Posted Yesterday, 05:48 PM
I honestly didn't realise this was a thing until now. I'll have to drain the coolant and follow the instructions on the website. Thanks everyone for your help
#9
Posted Yesterday, 06:58 PM
#10
Posted Yesterday, 09:47 PM
Most commercially available gaskets have a heat activated sealant on them.
Most coolant break down water tension, so the very smallest pathway, like you get from most decked blocks and heads, they will find a way through and leak.
Advice from ACL (who manufacture OEM Gaskets) is to fill the system with plain water and run the engine through 1 heat cycle, then change out for coolant.
I tend to run for much longer on plain water, so if I have a leak or I need to remove the radiator to rectify something else, I'm not throwing away coolant every time.
#11
Posted Yesterday, 10:00 PM
It's a good point. I've ordered a new gasket so I'll reassemble and run for a few minutes without any coolant then run with water for a while. Hopefully won't get any leaks afterwards.
#12
Posted Yesterday, 10:25 PM
It's a good point. I've ordered a new gasket so I'll reassemble and run for a few minutes without any coolant then run with water for a while. Hopefully won't get any leaks afterwards.
May I suggest that you rule out a possible problem with the surfaces of the block and head, while waiting for the new gasket.
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