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Dry Deck Kit - Fitting


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#1 pauly_denham

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 11:53 AM

Hello All,

 

I am away at sea at the moment so don't have my mini in front of me....

 

I have a 7 port head (AKM) which is machined for Dry Deck usage (has no cooling ports from the block) It has the large diameter hole in the side machined to fit a dry deck kit. However my block has not been fitted with a dry deck kit before.

 

So as far as I am aware I need to pop out the core plug and drill and tap the mounting holes for the "flange" for the dry deck tube, also I need to drill and tap the cooling ports on the top of the block to stop the old passage of water up through the head.

 

I am thinking of buying the KAD dry deck kit... Anybody recommend anything else? 

 

So basically my question is.... Can I drill and tap and do the modifications to the block with the engine in place? Or is it an engine out jobby? If I was super super careful not to drop any swarf into the cooling passages? Or is there a head gasket you can get that blocks the cooling passages on the block?

 

Cheers for any help in advance!!

 

Paul 



#2 Fast Ivan

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 12:25 PM

engine out job imo

having recently prepared a block for a K head where I had to block quite a lot of the deck face holes I can tell you now there's a lot of swarf produced



#3 pauly_denham

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 12:32 PM

Haha thats what I thought... wishful thinking on my part I guess!! Cheers for the info



#4 Dusky

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 01:14 PM

Hmm, do you need to Block the engine Block too? If the head is.blocked I would think that the gasket would seal enough just a thought though :P

#5 mini13

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 02:39 PM

I would say its doable in the car with a few precautions,

 

I would stick the pistons at bid point and stick some grease round the edge to catch any particles, then gaffa tape up the face with masking / gaffa tape, drill/ tap the water ways ( grease the drills and taps to catch the swarf) vac/ ailine evrything off, remve tape, wipe grease ect...



#6 Fast Ivan

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 02:58 PM

I'm not so sure and I'm going to disagree with you there :)
Greasing the drill isn't going to prevent swarf falling down, the cutting edges are right at the end of the drill, plus it will get hot and melt any grease away.
Plus the cutting fluid for the taps will naturally flow down pulling the swarf with it

#7 Spider

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 07:59 PM

I'm not so sure and I'm going to disagree with you there :)
Greasing the drill isn't going to prevent swarf falling down, the cutting edges are right at the end of the drill, plus it will get hot and melt any grease away.
Plus the cutting fluid for the taps will naturally flow down pulling the swarf with it

 

I gotta say, I agree with Fast Ivan here. It will be very difficult to guarantee you won't end up with swarf where you don't want it and given why you are doing this exercise it sound a bit like one step forward and two steps back.



#8 mad mk1

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 08:58 PM

I would say its doable in the car with a few precautions,

 

I would stick the pistons at bid point and stick some grease round the edge to catch any particles, then gaffa tape up the face with masking / gaffa tape, drill/ tap the water ways ( grease the drills and taps to catch the swarf) vac/ ailine evrything off, remve tape, wipe grease ect...

 

 

Like mini 13 said it can be done in the car! I have dry decked two Eng now, as your only working on the block and you are only tapping into the water way,, so clean the lot up get some black tape from work ;-) ,, tape the top of the block so nothing can get in the bore,,  tap out the holes to M8 , M14 then water pump off and flush it out with a hose job done. 



#9 pauly_denham

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 03:06 PM

Cheers for the advice guys... think I may stick with the safe option and pull it out... not too big deal anyway just another job to add to the never ending list :P



#10 Dusky

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 04:20 PM

Why is the Block blocked?

#11 AndyR

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 05:16 PM

.........or

 

http://www.med-engin...ead-gasket-only

 

Not used it but it may be worth giving them a call!



#12 mini13

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 07:14 PM

of course, you could just leave them open, you'll be getting the benifit of the cooling, and I'm guessing you wont be too fussed about finishing any races if a headgasket does go?



#13 monkey

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 07:51 PM

.........or
 
http://www.med-engin...ead-gasket-only
 
How much?! It needs to be reliable for £90! Lol
Not used it but it may be worth giving them a call!



#14 Fast Ivan

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Posted 30 August 2015 - 06:23 AM

.........or
 
http://www.med-engin...ead-gasket-only
 
Not used it but it may be worth giving them a call!

That's a solution right there, looks like they do a whole dry deck kit as well

Edited by Fast Ivan, 30 August 2015 - 07:20 AM.


#15 GraemeC

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Posted 30 August 2015 - 08:11 AM

I'm with Dusky - if there is no coolant path in the head, why do you need to bung up the block? The gasket and head will seal the top of the opening for you.






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