8 replies to this topic

[Lt-SilverDragon]

At the minute I've got a flamethrower coil and an electronic dizzy to match but I've just bought this off 'The Matt'

http://m.ebay.co.uk/...129?_mwBanner=1

My car is an inertia type starter so solenoid on wing, was just wondering if it would help with starting if I ran a cable from the cranking side of solenoid to coil? I'm getting a aux fusebox from wiredbywilson and one of the fuses will be used just to feed power to coil but I'm trying to supply the best spark possible for the mini.

[nicklouse]

why do you think the cranking side? what would happen when you stop cranking?.

 

you could fit a relay and activate that with the existing ing. on feed to coil and then feed the relay from the batt. side of the solenoid. and on to the coil.

[Lt-SilverDragon]

I'd have a regular ign live to coil as well, was just to give it more juice when cranking. Just cause ballast systems have that set up but I know they usually have 9v to coil. Will see how well the new aux fusebox works as it's been running well the set up I've been using. Just having issues getting it started now.

[dklawson]

With the electronic ignition you do not need the direct feed from the solenoid to the coil.  The ballast system and its cranking bypass were discontinued when electronic ignitions were introduced because they were no longer needed.

 

If you insist on trying this you would need the relay (or a power diode) as Nick suggested.  However, it would be easier to replace your 3-terminal solenoid with a 4-terminal unit that will already have a terminal for connecting the ballast bypass wire to coil (+).

[monkey]

If you left the current live on the coil and added one from the cranking side of the solenoid, would that not then provide current to the cranking side of the solenoid during normal running? I would guess this would then cause a current drop because the starter would try to run, so you would have less current for a spark and a constantly cranking starter?
Can someone confirm this or am I way of the mark?

[dklawson]

If you left the current live on the coil and added one from the cranking side of the solenoid, would that not then provide current to the cranking side of the solenoid during normal running? I would guess this would then cause a current drop because the starter would try to run, so you would have less current for a spark and a constantly cranking starter?
Can someone confirm this or am I way of the mark?

 

You are not off the mark except that the small wire from the coil to the solenoid's starter terminal would not allow sufficient current flow to run the starter itself.  It would however continuously energize the starter which would be a problem.  That is why I commented that you would need the relay that Nick mentioned or a diode to prevent  the reverse current flow.    

 

IF someone insists on making this wiring change, the easiest method is to use the 4-terminal solenoid that was used with the ballast ignition systems.  However, with electronic ignitions it simply is not needed.

[KernowCooper]

Correct monkey if you directly run a wire from the solenoid output to the starter and on to the coil then it is trying to provide current to the starter windings when you release the key, obviously the small gauge wiring cant provide that current so the wire would melt. You would need the 4 terminal starter solenoid.

 

Have you checked the ignition switch is not faulty? signs of that is failure to fire up but if you just come back off the start position the engines catches.

 

Typing again at the same time Doug lol

Edited by KernowCooper, 01 September 2015 - 04:31 PM.

[Guess-Works.com]

If you already have a 12v feed to the coil, which you should with both the coil you have and the coil you're fitting, then fitting a wire from the solenoid, will do nothing apart from adding an extra wire to your loom...

The Ballast systems have the 'cranking' wire so that during the start procedure the coil is overdriven with a 12v feed, as opposed the the nominal 8v they normally require.

[Lt-SilverDragon]

Thanks guys, it was a thought I had as my mini has butchered wiring but I've done the best I can to get a clean 12v source to the coil. The reason I've had issues is because I couldn't find a live that stayed live during cranking that also switched off with ignition.

I've ordered a new steering lock/ignition as I think it's the ignition that's the issue as I've still got the white wire that is supposed to go to + side of coil but when you turn the ignition off then the car just keeps running. I wired on a switch so I can turn it off and on but want to fix it properly.

Good news is, I have managed to get my mini running again but it's not too healthy but it's the timing/carb set up that is the issue.

Edited by Lt-SilverDragon, 01 September 2015 - 06:11 PM.